Jump to content
SAU Community

Review Of My $800 Hypergear Hi-flow Atr28/g3

kccortez

By kccortez,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

kccortez Enthusiast

kccortez

Posted
Posted

So its been a few months now of having the hypergear turbo installed in my series 2 rwd. Nuances aside like needing a new oil line and minor install issues i must say it is so far the best mod i have made to my car!!!!!

I have a few supporting mods - zorst, fmic, t-boost controller, walbro pump and safc neo. So far on 10psi i'm getting 186rwkw which is great. Im only on 10psi as the R&R was kicking in with anything higher.

Their is a little more lag than standard, though once on song the turbo reaaly pulls hard to redline. For the money i dont believe their is much else on the market. Service by stao at hypergear is great!!

In the next few weeks i will be booking in for a nistune at status tuning ala trent. if i could get around 220rwkw before maxing out the injectors i'll be very happy.

If i'm keeping the stock injectors would their be any other mods that should be done to get the most out of my tune? ie z32, new actuator, plugs, coil packs?

If your on a budget and want a highflow, go the hypergear!!!!!!!

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
Posted

Nice result allready!!

Ive been looking at these turbo's, hoping that the stock turbo on my R34 wud go so i cud replace it. Sounds like they offer a good "step 1" increase which is all id want.

You can get good results with FPR's and you can also end up with a bad result like a lean out. I think on a NEO with a FPR you should be able to get a safe 220RWKW with a nistune espicially with a good tuner like trent.

There's a bloke over here in WA getting near on 380rwhp with stock INJ's with a FPR and its in a drift car.

The only other mod id consider would be a EBC and maybe some splitfire coil packs as your gonna need em eventually with a NEO.

Interesting to see your results, keep us informed.

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted

i'm a bit surprised your gains are'nt greater with the hi-flow at 10psi, i,m running basically the same mods but with full ces system for a return of 189rwkw on a stock turbo tuned by matt spry at pits, i,m interested to see what happens with more boost and r&r sorted what type of power you can really produce (i'm ready for turbo upgrade just not sure what direction yet)

goodluck.

kwickr33 Community Regular

kwickr33

Posted
Posted

Thats pretty good with 10psi. My stock turbo made 190rwkws at 14psi and the dam thing lost its turbine wheel on the dyno. Keen to see what happens with a better management system and more boost. Does any one know if the Nistune Chip works with the R34 Stagea ECU?

RS4StagMan Rising Star

RS4StagMan

Posted
Posted
Does any one know if the Nistune Chip works with the R34 Stagea ECU?

I believe it works for R34 ECU (Series 2 Stagea) ....you will need to email the Nistune authorised dealer your ECU serial number to confirm.

[JECS ECU only] (RB25DET)

http://www.nistune.com/

Don't think it is available for R33 engine management (Series 1 Stagea).

kccortez Enthusiast

kccortez

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well iv'e booked in my nistune with trent on the 8th of april. Hes going to change the plugs as well. I mentioned about the fpr and he believed that it wouldnt make that much of a difference with the tune and seeing as though i might get some new injectors in the future i might hold off for now.

As for the 186rwkw at 10 psi, i was a bit dissapointed with this figure myself as i had 185rkw with the stock at 12psi. I think with a quality tuner i would have a better figure but i was always was going to get the nistune. Regardless of the figure though the car feels so much stronger in the midrange and doesn't drop boost like the stock turbo did on mine.

I love the whistle as its spooling up as well!!!

i'm researching a valve body upgrade as well. its either going to be through rvo or maybe i'll get one sent over from mv autos and get someone to install it.

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
Posted

Depends on the turbo's efficiency range to. At say 10-14psi it may be similar to stock, probly only difference be a lower discharge temp. Then as you increase the boost it will pull away substantially.

A good tune getting rid of the SAFC will unleash a heap more to.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

Below is a dyno sheet with Boost map of The ATR28G3 based on a worked 1.8L CA18det starts from 17psi to 24psi in a .64 T28 rear which is roughly size of OP6 (I don't think they are .63 thou) T3. This might not be relevant but I don't currently have any data of it running full potential on RB25det engine. RB25det Neo it should pickup roughly 20% more in response and 10% in power.

atr28450compares.jpg atr28g3boosts.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...