Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I am on of the only people in the NT that has a greddy emu. No one has experience with them here so does anyone have base Airflow maps for the Greddy pressure sensor, or do i need to collect the data on a dyno like this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...p;hl=greddy+emu thread suggests.

I havent been able to drive my car for a while, so if anyone can help it would be great.

My car is:

1992 r32 GTS-t Auto - no mods

Thanks in Advance

Greg

(Also i am having issues with the car shifting from 850 - 1250 rpm when idling and the car running too rich, Do i just need a tune?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/
Share on other sites

Hi all

I am on of the only people in the NT that has a greddy emu. No one has experience with them here so does anyone have base Airflow maps for the Greddy pressure sensor, or do i need to collect the data on a dyno like this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...p;hl=greddy+emu thread suggests.

I havent been able to drive my car for a while, so if anyone can help it would be great.

My car is:

1992 r32 GTS-t Auto - no mods

Thanks in Advance

Greg

(Also i am having issues with the car shifting from 850 - 1250 rpm when idling and the car running too rich, Do i just need a tune?)

If your maps are all at 0 adjustments then you shouldnt have a problem. download and run the file below, its got 0 adjustments and is set up for your rb20. as long as you've wired in the EMU right it should work 100%. I've also set up data logging so you can look at all of the right parameters when diagnosing problems.

r32_r34_map_no_adj.zip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4503266
Share on other sites

If your maps are all at 0 adjustments then you shouldnt have a problem. download and run the file below, its got 0 adjustments and is set up for your rb20. as long as you've wired in the EMU right it should work 100%. I've also set up data logging so you can look at all of the right parameters when diagnosing problems.

r32_r34_map_no_adj.zip

Cheers, i was beginning to think no one used the emu

I'll see how it goes, i had trouble wiring it up initially and had to take it to one of the tuners here, apparently the injector connections were back to front someone had messed with the factory computer loom. He said that all of the setting were set to zero and hence i should be able to drive it around,

However....

Right now when you depress the accelerator there is a delay before the engine kicks in and at idle it pulses from 850 to 1250 rpm.

Furthermore once when i was driving it after it was installed, if i depressed the accelerator the car spluttered and sounded like it was going to stall, i then pulled over and restarted and it was fine?

Once again Thanks for your response, i appreciate it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4503658
Share on other sites

i used an emu for around a year, its a good piece of kit but it can definitely be a headache if not wired in properly. check if the map i put up fixes your problem, if not its possible its a wiring issue or even your jumper settings on the board of the EMU are wrong. also if it doesnt help i'd need a bit more info on whats happening to be able to help you out.

do you know how to read a data log properly to find faults?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4504402
Share on other sites

Hi

I personally have not interfaced the the emu, i am a little worried about stuffing up my engine. So on Tuesday i am taking it to a tuner to have a look at it however since he has not had experience with the greddy emanage ultimate, i have to find all this stuff out myself.

So, so far i need to:

Open your file and update the emu,

Check the wiring and jumper settings,

Use the Data logger to find issues,

Most tuners in the territory are used to powerfc's, haltech's or Wolf3D's and since i dont know how to tune and have an automatic, i have to decypher the emu for the tuner i use.

Thanks,

Greg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4504595
Share on other sites

yeah, all of my tuning was vs. psi.

plug in the sensor, set up the OPTION 1 or OPTION 2 (the 2 expansion ports on the front) to whichever the sensor is plugged into, plumb it into your plenum then off you go. its all in the manual.

i actually sold off all of my emanage stuff a few weeks ago including the pressure sensor and plug to input 5v from an A/F gauge.

you need to get yourself a laptop with the manage software and have a play with it yourself, especially when you're the one that is doing the research for your tuner. by the time i was getting someone to tune my car the first time i was explaining the features and helping with the tune. also helps if you have a minor problem and all it takes is a few clicks of the mouse to sort out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4505407
Share on other sites

Hi,

What unit do i need to use to utilise the pressure sensor?

Data Sampling Map

Do i use, Throttle Position, Airflow Hotwire, Greddy Pressure sensor, Relative Pressure or Charge efficiency.

Then i need to sample the data, Copy the data then paste that to airflow output map?

Is That correct?

Cheers

Greg

Edited by R32_R34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4505779
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...