Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What is the formula to achieve 400rwhp?

My injectors (also stock items) were at 72% duty at 250rwhp on 0.8bar boost. I've been told by my mechanic not to run more that 1.1bar boost through my high flowed turbo (R33) because of my internals. 300rwhp would be nice if I knew how to reach it.

Mark

  • Replies 335
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I got to 296.9rwhp on the stock turbo, so all 300 requires is an upgrade turbo.

I'm using a GT30 500hp turbo on mine, Wolf 3D, Greddy plenum, R34 GTR intercooler on mine, but there are plenty of other setups that will give you similar power, a good tuner is a must.

Pauls car was one of many cars being set up for a Dyno comp to run on another Dyno so i would have to be stupid to jack up the power when its about to run in front of hundreds of people on a different Dyno.My Dyno was calibrated less than one month ago.

At our test day ( the day we got 411 out of Pauls car) we also had near standard GTSs making less that 200rwhp.If you use a very good pump and rising rate fuel reg plus a good ecu you can feed the samesort of power on stock injectors but use standard pumps and you will struggle to feed 300.We will get Dyno Dynamics to prove this car and post the results but it is really making 411rwhp, ask any sucker thats been silly enuff to go for a ride.

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

JimX, I wasn't disagrreing with you there, just saying that most of the dyno's we (SAU WA) tend to use in WA are the accurate ones, and we leave the high reading ones to Silvia owners who need all the help they can get:D

i DEMAND you take that back.. :shake: although im in qld.. i dont really care about dyno readings at the moment.. my car is pretty much stock.. 4.3 diff gears and exhaust (std dump) oh and its rb20.. i ran a 14.0 with an apparent 220.5 hp reading (this was with 1.0bar boost) in shootout mode at what i am lead to belive was subzero's dyno.. i know there is a lower time in my car because i used sh*tty tyres, screwed my start up and had axle tramp.. i think the best way is to find your mate with the power on the street and go from there.. but then again its illegal.. so organise something.. meet in the middle of aussie and use rolling starts.. then no one can blame sh*tty starts.. yea well i forget what the whole point of writting something was.. but just because you have all this wonderful power doesnt mean youll run a good time.. maybe a dyno is the only way to tell..

rbs13, I was only have a tease of all my mates with Silvia's, it's an on-going rivalry. I think there great cars, and the power to weight is in your advantage. I was beaten on the day I got 411 by a Datsun 1600 with an SR20 pumping out 433rwhp, so I have much respect for the engine:D

MRK25T, I don't recommend pushing the stock turbo as hard as I did to get that sort of power, but I was planning on replacing it anyway, so we upped the boost. With an aftermarket turbo you should be able to make 340rwhp easy on just over 1 bar, if your not then something isn't working right.

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

MRK25T, I don't recommend pushing the stock turbo as hard as I did to get that sort of power, but I was planning on replacing it anyway, so we upped the boost. With an aftermarket turbo you should be able to make 340rwhp easy on just over 1 bar, if your not then something isn't working right.

I've got a high flowed standard R33 turbo along with the stuff you have on your car (I have a powerFC though) and tuned at .8bar it only managed 252rwhp. I asked if it could get anywhere near 300 if I increased the boost to 1.1bar and they said youd be lucky to get 280. The car seems to be holding back.

Originally posted by Hicks

Thats terrible. I'd be taking my car elsewhere, Mrk25t.

Indeed Hicks.

I've got a Z32AFM now (standard was maxing out) and i'm just thinking about getting a HKS2530 turbo to replace my high flowed one. I've never been to unigroup (or whatever the place is called) but from feedback on this forum they seem to be quite good.

Maybe I should get my car checked out by them first with a list of recommendations of what to fix/replace. Getting the car tuned is expensive :)

Originally posted by Steve

Mark, do you have cooler and exhaust?  Cos the power you are quoting is below what the stock turbo is capable, so I dont know where whoever sold you the turbo gets off calling it a high flow.

- somethiing is just not right there, sorry to say.

3" HKS catback exhaust + hi flow cat and front/dump pipe (probably no-name brands).

FMIC I think is Micks metalcraft

I also have regulator, pump, profec b, powerfc, clutch, adj cam sprocket (which wasnt touched in the tune), non ball bearing high flow standard R33 turbo, pod filter.

A good manifold will help, but I think you need to get the set up you have sorted first (thats what I would be doing) as you 'should' be getting alot more.

To give you an idea, I took my car to morpowa (here in SA) after having a tune and not being 100% happy. He (martin donnon) got me an extra 26rwkw, with no increase in detonation, and better idle and part throttle response.

He asked me what setup I had, told me what sort of power I should be expecting and low and behold, thats what I got.

Having someone who knows what they are doing makes a huge difference - bit like Steve SST and his wolf ecus :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...