Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

green p's (P2) in nsw, can drive either auto or manual,

red p's (P1) is restricted to whatever transmission the car has when you do the test.

:devil: here in vic its whatever transmission you did the test in for both red and greens...oh well i pity those fools who did the auto test :thumbsup:

LOL ouch at those laws...

yeah there is a crap load of NA R34's for sale in melb. im still on P's but i dont think id get rid of it after im off. too attached.. must do engine conversion lol

Haha i can see where you're coming from, i reckon i could hold on to mine for up to 5 years, i'm not so much interested in a GT-t unless i'd be taking it for a track day or something, if i were to be upgrading, it'd be a much better car like a GTR or a R8 clubsport. I simply love the tough shape of the R34's not to fussed performance wise.

Haha i speak from absolutely no experience, but i currently drive a 92' Mazda 626 and i've never not enjoyed the performance from it, i was lucky enough to sit in a 2-door GT-V and i was blown away just by the note of the exhaust, so i don't really have a bug for performance, so i'll have to disagree with you till proven otherwise haha, perhaps if i sat in a turbo maybe ill be converted but yeh, lets see.

There is some truth to that statement, but just see how the autos fare on the for sale section is quite poor, you'd know this already but when you get your greens, you can drive any. The last NA R34 auto went for $11k when his original list price was $16500 which is some indication of the demand for autos. Each to their own however, i dont discount your opinion, i simply have a different view.

Cheers for the input,

Danny

That guy was obviously a fool.

What I'm saying is N/A autos are no doubt worth less, and will sell for less, but that does not mean there is less demand for them. The sheer fact that they're cheaper will only increase their demand.

You're spot on there about the lower price increasing the demand, but just to see how elastic the demand is and how price plays such a large factor, it will be incredibly hard to sell a usual R34 auto for anything more than $13-14,000. Manuals will always easier to sell for a higher price than autos, they always have and i think they always will.

You're spot on there about the lower price increasing the demand, but just to see how elastic the demand is and how price plays such a large factor, it will be incredibly hard to sell a usual R34 auto for anything more than $13-14,000. Manuals will always easier to sell for a higher price than autos, they always have and i think they always will.

You've missed the point.

You said autos are harder to sell than manuals. At $15,000, yes they're harder to sell, but you're not buying your auto for that much in the first place. You're buying it for several thousand less, and that doesn't mean it will be more difficult to sell at a later date.

Nobody is selling an auto R34 for under 14K let alone 11-12K atm, unless its got over 120kms on it, everybody who's selling wants around 14-16K which they will never get for it. It is quite difficult to find one for a price you could sell it for the next day. The demand for autos is alot less than manuals unless the price is ridiculously priced. Each to their own its just an opinion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
×
×
  • Create New...