Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

green p's (P2) in nsw, can drive either auto or manual,

red p's (P1) is restricted to whatever transmission the car has when you do the test.

:devil: here in vic its whatever transmission you did the test in for both red and greens...oh well i pity those fools who did the auto test :thumbsup:

LOL ouch at those laws...

yeah there is a crap load of NA R34's for sale in melb. im still on P's but i dont think id get rid of it after im off. too attached.. must do engine conversion lol

Haha i can see where you're coming from, i reckon i could hold on to mine for up to 5 years, i'm not so much interested in a GT-t unless i'd be taking it for a track day or something, if i were to be upgrading, it'd be a much better car like a GTR or a R8 clubsport. I simply love the tough shape of the R34's not to fussed performance wise.

Haha i speak from absolutely no experience, but i currently drive a 92' Mazda 626 and i've never not enjoyed the performance from it, i was lucky enough to sit in a 2-door GT-V and i was blown away just by the note of the exhaust, so i don't really have a bug for performance, so i'll have to disagree with you till proven otherwise haha, perhaps if i sat in a turbo maybe ill be converted but yeh, lets see.

There is some truth to that statement, but just see how the autos fare on the for sale section is quite poor, you'd know this already but when you get your greens, you can drive any. The last NA R34 auto went for $11k when his original list price was $16500 which is some indication of the demand for autos. Each to their own however, i dont discount your opinion, i simply have a different view.

Cheers for the input,

Danny

That guy was obviously a fool.

What I'm saying is N/A autos are no doubt worth less, and will sell for less, but that does not mean there is less demand for them. The sheer fact that they're cheaper will only increase their demand.

You're spot on there about the lower price increasing the demand, but just to see how elastic the demand is and how price plays such a large factor, it will be incredibly hard to sell a usual R34 auto for anything more than $13-14,000. Manuals will always easier to sell for a higher price than autos, they always have and i think they always will.

You're spot on there about the lower price increasing the demand, but just to see how elastic the demand is and how price plays such a large factor, it will be incredibly hard to sell a usual R34 auto for anything more than $13-14,000. Manuals will always easier to sell for a higher price than autos, they always have and i think they always will.

You've missed the point.

You said autos are harder to sell than manuals. At $15,000, yes they're harder to sell, but you're not buying your auto for that much in the first place. You're buying it for several thousand less, and that doesn't mean it will be more difficult to sell at a later date.

Nobody is selling an auto R34 for under 14K let alone 11-12K atm, unless its got over 120kms on it, everybody who's selling wants around 14-16K which they will never get for it. It is quite difficult to find one for a price you could sell it for the next day. The demand for autos is alot less than manuals unless the price is ridiculously priced. Each to their own its just an opinion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...