Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why am I hearing that to register a vehicle with an aftermarket FMI, or at least a vehicle that isn't fitted stock with a FMI, you are required to have an engineer's certificate?

The list of PDF files StinkyPoo linked to in the Turbo Timer thread didn't seem to have anything relating to air-intake of the engine, be it Turbos, Superchargers, pod-filters or anything...unless I missed it lol

Anyone got anything solid on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263430-front-mount-intercoolers/
Share on other sites

i was told that you could only have one intake mode.. ie pod filter or intercooler.. not both. if you have more than one you need to get it engineered.

im not saying that the above statement is correct, that is what i was told but the engineer

i got my pod filter engineered because i had to do my coilovers so i thought i might as well do that too. i also got my pedals and boost gauge engineered

That's what I've heard also...So if the only engine mods on a car I'm looking at are FMI and Turbo-back exhaust, it *should* be ok? :wub:

Also, by "engineered" you mean certified, or (re)fitted by an engineer?

Approximately how much that cost?

Thanks

Edited by Trozzle

Yeh, I don't think many cops would pick on you cos it's soo easy to remove a FMIC. Anyways, here is the section of text:

1.1 MODIFICATIONS NOT REQUIRING CERTIFICATION

• Fitting a replacement new, used or reconditioned engine.

• Fitting a manufacturer’s optional engine together with any associated components as supplied by the manufacturer for that same model vehicle.

• Fitting replacement original equipment (or equivalent) engine and exhaust components.

• Fitting replacement original equipment, equivalent or better, components that have no influence on engine performance or emissions. (e.g. higher volume oil pump than original)

In all of the above cases, if the engine is modified, it must be certified under the relevant Approval Code.

1.2 MODIFICATIONS REQUIRING CERTIFICATION UNDER LA APPROVAL CODES

• Fitting equivalent engines (within 20% of original power and engine mass).

• Fitting performance engines.

• Installing a supercharger or turbocharger.

• Modifying engines and engine components.

One reason is that generally to fit a FMIC you need to cut extra holes in your car for pipework.

If you cut holes without reinforcing hole perimeter you have reduced structural integrity of Monocoque chassis..(technically anyway).

Any modifications to car chassis obviously needs to be engineer certified...

There are other regulations that are State dependant...

i used john wilson of AKZ engineering. cost me $550 to engineer my coilovers, pod filter, non standard wheels, boost gauge, aftermarket pedals and turbo timer. it took about a week to get the report back from him andi had no issues getting my car registered. i know some people have had problems with him.. i believe one was naughtyruski

i used john wilson of AKZ engineering. cost me $550 to engineer my coilovers, pod filter, non standard wheels, boost gauge, aftermarket pedals and turbo timer. it took about a week to get the report back from him andi had no issues getting my car registered. i know some people have had problems with him.. i believe one was naughtyruski

I've dealt with John on my previous car modification pre-skyline.. Not going to say anything here.

I went to Ray Spence to get my engineering done (POD, Wheels, FMIC, Exhaust) for $550. Took 8 hours to get the report in my hands (dropped off in the morning, picked up in the arvo). I think it was Mick that actually put me on to Ray Spence (cheers for that).

On the note of needing an engineer's cert for mods, where I read that, it also stated that interstate certificates are sufficient. Would a Queensland "modplate" count for this? If all mods have been certified and the car has been given this "modplate", I'm wondering if that will count enough.

I've dealt with John on my previous car modification pre-skyline.. Not going to say anything here.

I went to Ray Spence to get my engineering done (POD, Wheels, FMIC, Exhaust) for $550. Took 8 hours to get the report in my hands (dropped off in the morning, picked up in the arvo). I think it was Mick that actually put me on to Ray Spence (cheers for that).

x2 about not saying anything, I could say a massive amount.

I highly recommend Ray Spence. :cool:

Called Dickson Motor Registry this arvo, the modplate doesn't count for anything unless it's backed up by signed paperwork...that isn't necessarily a problem at this point, at least all the mods are done properly so getting an engineer's certificate from Ray when I've got the car won't be a trouble...only more money >.<

Other than the engineer's certificate, can anyone see any real reason I shouldn't grab this car while I can? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ht-t242518.html

Currently asking $14000 (plus $521 to send it to Canberra), and it has a new clutch as stated on the last page.

Thanks :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...