Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as per topic i want to fix my camber at back as one of my tyres wears badly on inner side

car has coilovers and hicas lock bar that's about it for suspension moods

what do i need ...rear upper camber kit or what?

what brands to use?

i seen few on ebay quoting they are good quality , there's few on there ?

what about whiteline kits?

Edited by 08r3308
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263949-fixing-camber-at-rear/
Share on other sites

Wearing on only one side is odd - any thoughts on why its not both sides? Something damaged perhaps? What are your current alignment settings?

Usually when you lower the car you need to add adjustability, and the more you lower it the more adjustability you require.

If you're not lowered, just get an alignment.

If you are lowered, put the kit in first then get the alignment. For my low GTR i needed two kits, i guess they put one at each end of the upper control arm.

no crash history as per previous post had that checked out and ruled that one out, well one side is more than other but both wear out on inside

can this be due to original bushes worn out , i think last aliment they maxed out stock bushes so cant be adjusted more

mr kotter is that with bushes only?

car is lowered and tyres do last few months (6-7) until i start noticing wear

isc how do complete kits compare to bush only?

i know bushes don't have as much alignment as full kits , but in terms on noise etc

Hey mate honestly when u lower an 33 they all have camber!! so don't stress, Yes those kits help but not that much. You can just flip the tyre (wheels stays put and tyres rotate) so you get double the life.

I am really interest as to wat those kits cost, if anyone has but them in can you please post the price

I got the Bilsteins and caster and camber kits via SK's GB a while ago but I never had my camber after alignment given to me .. what's the best way to find out the current camber on front and back ?

According to SK I should have -1deg camber at the front and -0.5 at the back. My 34 is lowered about 2cm and is using stock springs with Bilsteins.

If I lower the car any further will it be impossible to have same camber without using an extra camber kit ?

i think people are getting confused by using kit as in a whole arm and by just replacing bushes

p1otr if isc kits do go to 3+-(i read on few sites they do) in camber this will solve my issue and the tyre wear will be cut by heaps , i know all lowered cars will have camber and on r33 it gets expensive when you replace 19/265/30 due to camber wear

the bushes do not give that much adjustment imo so deltaforce is you lower any further just get the kit and be on safe side and not worry about it anymore even if you decide to go lower after that you know that camber adjustment will always be there

but if its $159 per camber arm, that's $640 for 4 + $400-500 in labour right ?

by the way, how much should I expect to pay to get my wheel geometry measured? I just want to know what my current camber is to see if the whiteline bushes that I have actually do anything

I had one of the whiteline bushes completely disintegrate on the front left wheel in less than 6 months ..but it was replaced since.

Edited by Delta Force

$159 is for 2??? not sure have to check with isc , i will be getting only 2 in my case

group install ehe i don't think they would be hard to fit as i will be doing this myself and then just going to sus place to get it adjusted and wheel alignment done

mr kotter is that with bushes only?

Yeah bushes only.

I checked out the isc website - the arms he has are rose jointed, and AFAIK that means;

- excellent control

- increased NVH

- shorter life (ie years instead of decades you'd get with bushes, also there doesnt appear to be any dust covers which would help)

- illegal for street use

If you're concerned about rose joint life, use search - its been discussed here before.

If you're concerned about the legality ask Ryan directly to provide proof they're street legal - i could be wrong (and am interested to know for sure)

interesting mr kotter and a good post, i have seen that just jap also sells some with rose joints that have rubber protectors in place.

so lets say a rose joint would last 2-3 yrs of daily driving or are we talking less?

another option might be bushes like you said but i dont think that will fix up my camber that much.

so whiteline come with one or 2 bushes or camber?

these can be diy or they have to be pressed?

The whiteline rear camber bushes gives +/- 0.75 deg of adjustment which should be enough unless your car is real low.

With these bushes you replace the inside bush of the control arm on each side, If you need more adjustment you can buy another kit and relace the outer bushes. (which givea total of +/- 1.5 deg)

Dunno about DIY, you could have a go at cutting the old bushes out. From memory there is a metal collar in the bush. I just took my control arms to pedders and got them to remove the old one and press the new one in. Didn't cost much, $30 i think...

Yeah, I used whiteline. Part number is KCA347

SuperPro, Pedders and UAS make simllar bushes, so you don't have to use whiteline. Try shopping around for the best price.

Again, how much has your car been lowered? My car was 340mm wheel to guard (30mm lower than standard) at the rear and one camber kit got me from -1.5 to -0.5.

More than +/-0.75, but my old bushes were stuffed.

Btw, you replace the inner traction rod bushes on each side as well as th UCA's. So in total the kit comes with 4 bushes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...