Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've spent the last couple of months adjusting new wider front and rear fenders for my R33 GTSt.

It was going to get a big airbrush paintjob on the sides, but keeping the original Light Silver paint as a base.

All of this went to pieces as i used a hot air blower to get rid of our company vinyls on the sides. Everything was going well when i pulled off the vinyls but then they started to go 'POP'.. leaving me big spots where the paint had stuck on the vinyls. This was appaerently because of bad work preparing for new paint from an earlier accident.

I couldnt decide what new color to go for, thought of all neon-colors i could but i like the factory look so after some real headbanging i went for the greenish 'Millenium Jade' found on the R34 GTR V-Spec II Nür.

But i still wanted too do something fun with the fenders, my priginal thought was to use screws to fit them, and really show the screws as they give a raw look to it. This i couldnt to cause the material was to thin. Fortunatly a friend if mine stopped by and said i might as well paint some pops on them. And then it grew to getting some rust-effect to it.

This was all good but not 100% great until another friend of mine told me, since i already was going to paint my Carbonfiber-bonnet (this is the whole Forgive me father-part), to paint some on the bonnet aswell! I know not all like CF painted but i think this will connect the style of the rear fenders with the style on the front :D

I'm going to get the trunk-lockhole painted too just to get it all connected in some way to each other.

Heres how it all looks with 2 layers of clear coat on, sanded with 800-paper and getting another 2 layers of clear coat:

post-25855-1238782003_thumb.jpg

post-25855-1238782014_thumb.jpg

post-25855-1238782138_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hopefully itll have that unique look to it, without taking it to far :P The original idea was to go for a race/drift/timw-attack look, with tons of vinyls but somewhere on the road it took a turn for something else ;)

The millenium paint is getting a bit darker, and getting a nice depth thanks to the clear coat. I saw it painted with only 2 layers and no extra sanding, it looked great but flat! The only thing that worries me somewhat is that i've always thought that an R33 shouldnt be painted green, doesnt fit the sort of lame/dull shapes of it. And then i went and painted mine green :cool:

Ill update with pics of it in the beginning of next week, got to hurry though, im going to a carshow on thursday morning and getting some parts on monday, the rest on tuesday afternoon... So im planning to get forgiven by God for painting the CF and try to get him to change a day from 24 to 36 hours.. Hope it works ;)

+1 for i think its looking good,

Rust is a different idea as usually most people HATE to see rust on their cars..

...

though i guess if rust starts to come through few years later you can say "i did that on purpose, part of the effect"

:cool:

Im doing everything when it comes to preparation such as alignment and adjusting parts, stripping it down and also sanding it down, myself, good way of learning new things and it'll feel nice when its done :devil:

The only thing i dont do myself is the laying the paint and airbrushing, havent got myself into that yet :)

With the rust effect, I wonder what happens when RTA inspector sees it.

They are gonna wanna have a deeper look into the car. They'll think hey whats happenin hear.

And prob bitch slap u for somethin else the pricks if they can't pin u for that.

But yeh, LOOKS TOUGH MAN!.

Very unique.

love the colour mate very nice.

Whats with the wrinkles in the paint on your tail lights though?

Thanks mate, cant wait to get it back from the paint iwth the last 2 layers of clear coat laid down! Will deffinetly post pics of that :)

Got me worried there! But the wrinkles are simply reflections from stuff on the right side of me, otherwise i'd be very unhappy with the result :wacko:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...