Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've spent the last couple of months adjusting new wider front and rear fenders for my R33 GTSt.

It was going to get a big airbrush paintjob on the sides, but keeping the original Light Silver paint as a base.

All of this went to pieces as i used a hot air blower to get rid of our company vinyls on the sides. Everything was going well when i pulled off the vinyls but then they started to go 'POP'.. leaving me big spots where the paint had stuck on the vinyls. This was appaerently because of bad work preparing for new paint from an earlier accident.

I couldnt decide what new color to go for, thought of all neon-colors i could but i like the factory look so after some real headbanging i went for the greenish 'Millenium Jade' found on the R34 GTR V-Spec II Nür.

But i still wanted too do something fun with the fenders, my priginal thought was to use screws to fit them, and really show the screws as they give a raw look to it. This i couldnt to cause the material was to thin. Fortunatly a friend if mine stopped by and said i might as well paint some pops on them. And then it grew to getting some rust-effect to it.

This was all good but not 100% great until another friend of mine told me, since i already was going to paint my Carbonfiber-bonnet (this is the whole Forgive me father-part), to paint some on the bonnet aswell! I know not all like CF painted but i think this will connect the style of the rear fenders with the style on the front :D

I'm going to get the trunk-lockhole painted too just to get it all connected in some way to each other.

Heres how it all looks with 2 layers of clear coat on, sanded with 800-paper and getting another 2 layers of clear coat:

post-25855-1238782003_thumb.jpg

post-25855-1238782014_thumb.jpg

post-25855-1238782138_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hopefully itll have that unique look to it, without taking it to far :P The original idea was to go for a race/drift/timw-attack look, with tons of vinyls but somewhere on the road it took a turn for something else ;)

The millenium paint is getting a bit darker, and getting a nice depth thanks to the clear coat. I saw it painted with only 2 layers and no extra sanding, it looked great but flat! The only thing that worries me somewhat is that i've always thought that an R33 shouldnt be painted green, doesnt fit the sort of lame/dull shapes of it. And then i went and painted mine green :cool:

Ill update with pics of it in the beginning of next week, got to hurry though, im going to a carshow on thursday morning and getting some parts on monday, the rest on tuesday afternoon... So im planning to get forgiven by God for painting the CF and try to get him to change a day from 24 to 36 hours.. Hope it works ;)

+1 for i think its looking good,

Rust is a different idea as usually most people HATE to see rust on their cars..

...

though i guess if rust starts to come through few years later you can say "i did that on purpose, part of the effect"

:cool:

Im doing everything when it comes to preparation such as alignment and adjusting parts, stripping it down and also sanding it down, myself, good way of learning new things and it'll feel nice when its done :devil:

The only thing i dont do myself is the laying the paint and airbrushing, havent got myself into that yet :)

With the rust effect, I wonder what happens when RTA inspector sees it.

They are gonna wanna have a deeper look into the car. They'll think hey whats happenin hear.

And prob bitch slap u for somethin else the pricks if they can't pin u for that.

But yeh, LOOKS TOUGH MAN!.

Very unique.

love the colour mate very nice.

Whats with the wrinkles in the paint on your tail lights though?

Thanks mate, cant wait to get it back from the paint iwth the last 2 layers of clear coat laid down! Will deffinetly post pics of that :)

Got me worried there! But the wrinkles are simply reflections from stuff on the right side of me, otherwise i'd be very unhappy with the result :wacko:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...