R33 Gtr Track-only

[Brockas]

I was going to send SydneyKid a PM, but unfortunately his inbox is full, so I'll ask this on the open forum.

I understand he suggests the group buy kits for R33 GTR's (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R33-Gtr-Bilstein-and-Whitel-t87826.html).

These seem to be geared towards road cars which occasionally see the track.

I can't seem to find what would be recommended for a 100% track-only R33 GTR (such as mine). The car is only used for time-attack events, club sprints, and tarmac rally's here in WA. If this has been covered before please the link, as I've done a search but come up with nada.

Currently the car has Tein Super Street coil-overs, and that is all. I run either Bridgestone RE55 SR2's, or currently considering the Advan A050's, and Alcon front calipers with 355mm floating discs.

What settings/parts would you suggest? Currently the car turns in quite well, but oversteers horribly at both turn-in and exit, and also suffers mid-corner understeer.

I have a budget of roughly $2500.

I am currently considering Lower Control Arms for the front, as I don't want to adjust camber by 'tucking' the top of the rim in, would rather push the bottom out and increase track at the same time. The IKEYA Formula bars seem to be the only ones which do this at the moment, does anyone know of another brand? Will also look into castor rods for the front.

What can I do to increase rear traction and prevent the back from coming out? Upper control arms for the rear? Bit more negative camber?

As per SK's suggestions, I have a ride height of 365mm front, and 355mm rear.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers

[djr81]

What settings/parts would you suggest? Currently the car turns in quite well, but oversteers horribly at both turn-in and exit, and also suffers mid-corner understeer.

So, apart from that it handles pretty well?

[Brockas]

So, apart from that it handles pretty well?

Thanks for your input.

[djr81]

Thanks for your input.

Yeah ok, just trying to have a laugh.

Look its a GTR. Hence is basic handling characteristic will be understeer, then power on oversteer.

To fix the understeer you need to control the roll (by spring and sway bar stiffness to reduce the dynamic camber change on the outside front) and use a large dose of -ve camber on the front end.

To deal with power on oversteer you need to change the torque bias for the ATTESSA system.

Use the Bridgestone rubber in preference to just about anything else.

Gary (SK) has not been on this forum for a very long time.

With regard to the other tiems you have listed.

Castor rods help, but only a little. They are not the panacea the drift nuggets insist they are.

Nismo make LCA's too.

Upper rear control arms are unnecessary - but you need to be able to set the -ve camber at a reasonable value. Reasonable being somewhere in the range of one and a bit degrees negative.

[Brockas]

Much better, cheers dude!

Pity about SK, his advice was invaluable.

[jonn]

Hey Brockas,

Have you got any sort of ATTESSA controller?

The Ruzic Engineering one is probably the best on the market and infinitely adjustable. I've put one on mine, played with it a little at the last No Limits night. Definitely a worthy addition.

[Duncan]

I had about the same budget as you 2.5k and went with the following

bilstein shocks with sleeve for adjustable base

eibach springs

solid sway bars front and rear

adjustable castor bushes

adjustable front upper arm bushes

adjustable rear lower arm bushes

alignment is 4o castor, 4o camber front, 2o camber rear. I am happy with how it goes

I am limited by race regs to bushes not replacement arms, if not I would run JJR adjustable upper arms front and rear and their castor arms as well. It is definately better to lengthen the lower arm than shorten the upper, but those IKEYA/nismo arms would take up your whole budget alone

I haven't run the yoko a050s, but the 48s and 32s were rubbish, especially for their premium price. You will give away at least 1 sec per lap with them.

[Mr. Keets]

Paul, have a chat with Brad at W.A. Suspensions. They look after my 32 and the track a couple of 33T''s...always a few Skylines parked outside lol

[djr81]

I had about the same budget as you 2.5k and went with the following

bilstein shocks with sleeve for adjustable base

eibach springs

solid sway bars front and rear

adjustable castor bushes

adjustable front upper arm bushes

adjustable rear lower arm bushes

alignment is 4o castor, 4o camber front, 2o camber rear. I am happy with how it goes

I am limited by race regs to bushes not replacement arms, if not I would run JJR adjustable upper arms front and rear and their castor arms as well. It is definately better to lengthen the lower arm than shorten the upper, but those IKEYA/nismo arms would take up your whole budget alone

How did you get 4 degrees out of offset bushes? I couldn't get even three.

The Nismo arms tend to get sold as a kit - with stuff you don't need.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...linebcnr33.html

Mostly the arms are stock Nissan parts, but drilled differently & painted silver.

For my 10 cents worth the minimal list will be:

Sway bars front & rear.

Shocks/springs (If you are unhappy with what you have).

Adjustable bushes for front & rear.

Falling under the good idea category is:

Shorter front upper control arms.

Adjustable castor rods or offset bushes for the stock items.

Under the nice to have category are:

Longer front lower control arms.

Front upper link mounting brackets (ex Nismo)

[Brockas]

Hey Brockas,

Have you got any sort of ATTESSA controller?

The Ruzic Engineering one is probably the best on the market and infinitely adjustable. I've put one on mine, played with it a little at the last No Limits night. Definitely a worthy addition.

Hey John, I will look into it, although it was my impression that with the quicker ATTESSA systems in the 33 the controllers were less effective than when their implemented in 32's. I may be wrong though

I had about the same budget as you 2.5k and went with the following

bilstein shocks with sleeve for adjustable base

eibach springs

solid sway bars front and rear

adjustable castor bushes

adjustable front upper arm bushes

adjustable rear lower arm bushes

alignment is 4o castor, 4o camber front, 2o camber rear. I am happy with how it goes

I am limited by race regs to bushes not replacement arms, if not I would run JJR adjustable upper arms front and rear and their castor arms as well. It is definately better to lengthen the lower arm than shorten the upper, but those IKEYA/nismo arms would take up your whole budget alone

I haven't run the yoko a050s, but the 48s and 32s were rubbish, especially for their premium price. You will give away at least 1 sec per lap with them.

Excellent, that is the best advice I've been given, thanks!!

I don't mind forking out more for gear later on, so I might do the Ikeya arms + rear camber arms + solid sway bars for now, then do bilstein shocks and eibach springs later, as I already have coilovers.

Paul, have a chat with Brad at W.A. Suspensions. They look after my 32 and the track a couple of 33T''s...always a few Skylines parked outside lol

Cheers mate, I know Brad, and also Brett from Wilkinsons, but was just chasing some real-world advice from people with GTR's who have tracked them on here. That way I can suggest a setup to one of them, then they can fine adjust it later if it's not perfect.