Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I must firstly confess I have little knowlege of the V series of skylines - so I come in search of advice.

A friend of mine has just picked up his 2004 V35 350GT coupe with the six speed manual and is looking at the twin turbo and supercharger kits that are available.

One of the big questions though is how strong the stock gearbox is, I have searched for information and found vague torque limits. Does anyone know exactly how strong the gearboxes are - reports tend to vary wildly. 

Any info or links would be appreciated.

Having busted one (6M) within weeks of purchase....and now having a new one...I know this....they are heavy bloody things, even when on a trolley! lol!

They are noisy/rattly bloody things too!...but they're strong, and should handle nominal power upgrades.....my mechanic agrees.

As for that diff?.....pffffft...who knows?

Hardly 'tech' words,..but hey, who gives a faaark!

Having busted one (6M) within weeks of purchase....and now having a new one...I know this....they are heavy bloody things, even when on a trolley! lol!

They are noisy/rattly bloody things too!...but they're strong, and should handle nominal power upgrades.....my mechanic agrees.

As for that diff?.....pffffft...who knows?

Hardly 'tech' words,..but hey, who gives a faaark!

Strong... but you busted it... can you please explain a bit further?

What went wrong and how do you imagine that happened?

Was a new one costly?

Strong... but you busted it... can you please explain a bit further?

What went wrong and how do you imagine that happened?

Was a new one costly?

7000rpm launches with slicks on, flat changes etc :D

7000rpm launches with slicks on, flat changes etc :D

yes.....a little something like that...

and (incorrectly) attempting to engage reverse (by accident) at freeway speeds...(successfully).

  • 1 month later...
yes.....a little something like that...

and (incorrectly) attempting to engage reverse (by accident) at freeway speeds...(successfully).

My 04 model has a feature to prevent engaging reverse. You have to push the gearknob down to allow reverse to be engaged, doesn't yours have that?

I just cringed reading that. OUCH! Reading something like that to me was like imagining getting kicked in the crotch.

I heard a similar story from an indo driving a DC5R downshifting from 6th to 4th but was a bit too excited and hit 2nd... rev, bang.

On another note a bit of chattering is normal from these boxes? And a slight chatter when turning the ignition off? Its def the box because there is nothing with the clutch in.

One of the big questions though is how strong the stock gearbox is, I have searched for information and found vague torque limits.

There's a dude trying to sell a 535rwkW V35 on Carsales (Carl). See what he's done to his box, because he's had that setup for a while and he hasn't grenaded the gearbox yet.

The 03 boxes have a reputation for breaking (but that's even with NA bolt-on specs) but there are guys who've gone FI and tracked their cars (250-320rwkW) for a few years without breaking them. It sounds more like dodgy QC rather than an inherent design fault.

  • 2 weeks later...
I just cringed reading that. OUCH! Reading something like that to me was like imagining getting kicked in the crotch.

I heard a similar story from an indo driving a DC5R downshifting from 6th to 4th but was a bit too excited and hit 2nd... rev, bang.

On another note a bit of chattering is normal from these boxes? And a slight chatter when turning the ignition off? Its def the box because there is nothing with the clutch in.

anyone?

I heard a similar story from an indo driving a DC5R downshifting from 6th to 4th but was a bit too excited and hit 2nd... rev, bang.

A mate of mine was telling me about a BMW track day his boss went to. Flying down the main straight of EC in an M3, tried to go from 4th to 3rd to prepare for Turn 1, hit the gate and pushed harder, and found 1st.

On another note a bit of chattering is normal from these boxes? And a slight chatter when turning the ignition off? Its def the box because there is nothing with the clutch in

I only got symptoms similar to what you're describing when I fitted a JUN flywheel in my first box. Stock flywheel/clutch it didn't do it.

I did a Nismo clutch/flywheel when I fitted a second 'box, and it's the same now. A little rattle on idle with the clutch out, which stops when I clutch in. It only happens when the driveline is warm though.

I'm not sure if the Nismo flywheel is dual mass or not, but I heard it was. That might be the flywheel for a single plate clutch instead though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...