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Same Side Inlet/outlet Fmic


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hi guys

did a search for fmic's with the inlet/outlets on the same side and didnt come across any...

im wanting to get my 33gtst s2 up to around the 260-280rwkw's mark. currently im researching as such a new larger fmic. the 1 i currently have is a rather small apexi (not sure of model) with the inlet on 1 side - outlet on the other and the return pipe running beneith the fmic.

i basically want 2 up the kw's of my car but still do it "legally" - if there is such a word for imported performance cars :D

ive been told by a few ppl that because my gtst is a series 2, i cannot cut into the chassis because of the air bag sensors. when i got defected a few months ago i got into a conversation with the guy at pits and somehow we got onto the topic of fmics. i asked him about it and what he said was basically "nissan would have done crash impact testing in the design phase of the car and placed and set the air bag sensors at the front of the car in a certain way that only under certain conditions the air bags will deploy. if i start cutting/changing/welding into the chassis this COULD affect their operation thus affecting a safety feature on the car. however, the 33gtst s1's dont have this problem because they do not come with air bags as standard"

i came across this thread while searching thru google and some interesting points have been made (im unsure if some are true or not simply because i dont know)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/...-find-fmic.html

-- "Both the inlet and the outlet are on the same tank. If you have ever seen a thermal image of an intercooler when it is operating you will notice that inlet tank is usually 70 to 100 degrees hotter than the outlet. When they are the same peice of metal then the heat from the inlet will carry over directly to the outlet partially offsetting the cooling effect of the intercooler itself."

or am i simply worring for no reason and should just go for a sandard larger side to side fmic?

thanks in advance

adam

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70-100 degrees temperature difference between the inlet and outlet sounds a bit much....

im guessing the idea is that you will hav the inlet pipe for example at the top of the cooler on the left hand side of the car, with the inlet chamber divided into two sections and then the outlet at the bottom of the cooler on the left hand side. Therefore the air has to pass through the entire cooler to get that cooling effect. Its got its pros and cons i guess, wouldnt see it being to much different then a standard FMIC but if the right hand chamber housed a seperate intake and outlet section then the heat might pass to the outlet a little from the intake side through the barrier in the middle. At the same time though i guess u gain from having the air pass through the whole intercooler before exiting.

I'm sorry i cant really be to much help, but using logics i guess you could say it would be worth it? The cooler you got now is probably fine for the type of power your after but. The shared inlet side may just speed up spool times a little.

Thats how i see it anyway.... I'm not claiming to be an expert just going from what ive seen :D

Edited by Boostin96
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Nothing wrong with a return flow style cooler for 260rwkw.

I mean look if you were racing, after every inch of performance and so on, then you wouldnt go return flow... but then you wouldnt have to live in the confines of the laws so all is well.

Modding a car, and keeping legal, often means compromise in some area's, this is one of them for Airbag models.

Is there a difference? Possibly... would you be able to tell in a street application? Again possibly... but WOULD it be a massive difference? No.

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Nothing wrong with a return flow style cooler for 260rwkw.

I mean look if you were racing, after every inch of performance and so on, then you wouldnt go return flow... but then you wouldnt have to live in the confines of the laws so all is well.

Modding a car, and keeping legal, often means compromise in some area's, this is one of them for Airbag models.

Is there a difference? Possibly... would you be able to tell in a street application? Again possibly... but WOULD it be a massive difference? No.

I went from a hks noirmal ic to a shitty normal ic and noticed a boost drop, then went to a blitz return flow and now there is no difference from the hks.

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yeh im not going to try and squeeze every little possible kw from my car, just after a good, reliable setup that will last. so a blitz return flow should be good (and legal) for what i need? what is wrong with the cooling-pro stealth setup?

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yeh im not going to try and squeeze every little possible kw from my car, just after a good, reliable setup that will last. so a blitz return flow should be good (and legal) for what i need? what is wrong with the cooling-pro stealth setup?

There is an install thread for the cooling pro install, things dont always fit properly and as with any cheap chinese stuff is manafacturing standards are not the best, may do for you want though.

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