Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 98 s1 rs4 stagea and have decided to do afew mods with the money from K Rudd and what i have in my account.

it's an rb25, non neo with no work done as yet.

so i have decided to get a 3inch turbo back exhaust and front mount and then tune once these are on.

my mate suggested to put on a bigger turbo, am i able put this on a stock engine without hurting and having to strengthen it?

what other mods are there that aren't too costly that'll still give me more POWER!

any help appreciated, cheers,

Mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264936-modding-my-98s1-rs4/
Share on other sites

Spend some time reading through this forum before parting with your cash.

If you have the money for a bigger turbo then you can make sure your 3in system is compatible with it. The front mount will help with a bigger turbo (won't give any power gain otherwise). You won't be able to "tune" the engine with the stock ecu so if you have the money you should get a Vipec/Link ecu. With less money you could get an Apexi SITC and SAFC.

Your ten year old fuel pump could struggle to keep up so as insurance you should get a new, better pump (e.g. Walbro or Bosch). An electronic boost controller ( I recommend the Jaycar IEBC but there are others) will help build an maintain boost.

By now you should be looking to upgrade your suspension and brakes - its all in this forum in the DIY and other threads.

How much power can your stock engine take? Seems to depend partly on how you treat it but all of the above should be OK at around 220 - 250AWKW depending on which turbo you go with and the quality of the tune.

shift kit

alignment bushes(i wouldnt do shocks/springs til the stock shocks die)

TBE with highflow cat

S2/R34 SMIC

EBC(or bypass stock solenoid)

SAFC or ECU

Racebrakes RB74 or Endless SSS pads

i wouldnt bother with a turbo until all of the above are done

As told before ,if you are going to change turbo check comp with the dump pipe ,high flow metal cat converter is a must as high flow panel filter or pod filter...after that EBC so maybe you can get up to 14-16 psi depending turbo(don't try it with the stock one) + SAFC to control fuel air.

After that for sure you will atrt thinking about handling and braking ,herre you can go two ways first as Ryan said endless pads +braided lines or second change to R33 (or R34) rotors and calipers( you can allways go with brembos ...but pricy) and maybe upgrade sway bars for some whiteline ones

You will find lots of ideas in this forum,so check around and save yourself some headhaches (or just ask there'll be somebody happy to answer and help)

Good luck and have fun...

As told before ,if you are going to change turbo check comp with the dump pipe ,high flow metal cat converter is a must as high flow panel filter or pod filter...after that EBC so maybe you can get up to 14-16 psi depending turbo(don't try it with the stock one) + SAFC to control fuel air.

After that for sure you will atrt thinking about handling and braking ,herre you can go two ways first as Ryan said endless pads +braided lines or second change to R33 (or R34) rotors and calipers( you can allways go with brembos ...but pricy) and maybe upgrade sway bars for some whiteline ones

You will find lots of ideas in this forum,so check around and save yourself some headhaches (or just ask there'll be somebody happy to answer and help)

Good luck and have fun...

my car stops on a dime... once there is heat in the pads, you feel like time is slowing!

come for a spin before changing calipers, unless you are just doing it for ease of pad/rotor choice, but i doubt R33 calipers will fit under s1 stockie rims

any order you want ...

want power first ?

want handling first ? stagea's handle great stock, but can always use some extra tweeking :P

but cooling should be the next step once the box is working harder, due to engine mod's or yourself just trashing it :D

R34 smic with air scoop, cold air deflector, hi flow panel filter. Thats what I have on my auto. With JJ bellmouth dump X Force cat and 3'' cat back with new resonator and 3" cannon. Power increase is quite noticeable and the bottom end will stand it.

BTW big Kev's money wont pay for all of it.

BTW big Kev's money wont pay for all of it.

That's tue,sad but true, and things are going even worst,looks like like all import stuff is about to go up in price...so Mickya mind your mods because you need some balance on them,simple power upgrades like hi flow filter (maybe smic/fmic)+ exhaust(dumpy+cat+catback) is one thing,but changing turbo and make it work perfect involves ecu re-tune + bigger fuel pump + inyector +etc ,is another +++labor on top(except you do it your self...)so good luck in your project... :laugh:

yeh krudd will not cover this, but i have abit stored away in my piggy bank :sick: and my dad is a mechanic, although this area isn't his forte he will (hopefully) be able to help out in the labor department. cheers guys

That's tue,sad but true, and things are going even worst,looks like like all import stuff is about to go up in price...so Mickya mind your mods because you need some balance on them,simple power upgrades like hi flow filter (maybe smic/fmic)+ exhaust(dumpy+cat+catback) is one thing,but changing turbo and make it work perfect involves ecu re-tune + bigger fuel pump + inyector +etc ,is another +++labor on top(except you do it your self...)so good luck in your project... :laugh:
shift kit

alignment bushes(i wouldnt do shocks/springs til the stock shocks die)

TBE with highflow cat

S2/R34 SMIC

EBC(or bypass stock solenoid)

SAFC or ECU

Racebrakes RB74 or Endless SSS pads

i wouldnt bother with a turbo until all of the above are done

also a turbotech EBC from ebay is an alternative to an EBC too... 40AUD from ebay

I would follow my list :laugh:, i did(roughly) (my exhaust is JJR bellmouth dump, JJR catco cat, and a custom catback- its legal and seems to flow fine)

yeh krudd will not cover this, but i have abit stored away in my piggy bank :D and my dad is a mechanic, although this area isn't his forte he will (hopefully) be able to help out in the labor department. cheers guys

No,problem you have all the hardware/parts change cover now... :( (it's like any other car,for a mechanic)

No,problem you have all the hardware/parts change cover now... :( (it's like any other car,for a mechanic)

Except when you have to remove/replace turbo. You need fingers like forceps and a pack of bandaids.LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...