Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just wondering has anyone tried/used the gt3582r on there rb25?

im looking at upgrading my turbo, at the moment im running a kkr480 with 50mm ext gate on 18psi making 240rwkw ran 115mph.

has anyone had issues with the gt3582r internal gate? can they hold boost etc

would it be a worthy upgrade or not worth it? want something with more punch!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265130-rb25-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

get a 3076, more power, about the same response as the KKR junk :P

hey im chasing more mid range torque plus ya top end power, my kkr i make 1.4bar at about 4800rpm, i want it at 3800rpm if possible. but with the same torque. til redline.

would 3076 make 250rwkw on 14psi? so 18psi could i push 280rwkw and 120mph+?

do they make 3076 internally gated? do they hold boost or creep?

im not really into the mood of hacking into another exhaust housing and gettin a 50mm ext gate welded on again! its why im considering iternal gate

Edited by l0WRB

i have an internal gate 3076, it holds boost fine if you make the dump properly. i'm making 250rwkw at 17psi. all in around 3900 on the road. if i was going to do it again i'd go external from the start

i have an internal gate 3076, it holds boost fine if you make the dump properly. i'm making 250rwkw at 17psi. all in around 3900 on the road. if i was going to do it again i'd go external from the start

oh ok thanks 4 that. see no point upgrading if im only gonna gain 10kw at same boost level, not worth the 2.5g to do it!

i kinda want a turbo that makes 250rwkw at 1bar and perhaps 280-300 at 1.3bar-1.4bar

i had one if not the first 3582r-iw sold in Aus, mounted on my 25

it started out low mounted and then high mounted on a etm manifold, and i loved it.

my car was running a built r33 auto with highstall.

the turbo had a 18 psi actuator with a .82 rear and would see 20 psi between 4000 - 4200rpm

going up a lg hill in overdrive ive seen 5 psi at 2500 rpm, Laggy i think not.

in my eyes this is the same boost response to the 3076, yet the potential for future power is allways there.

i have since sold this turbo and manifold to another SAU member and he with a manual and e85 has produced 380 rwkws,

on a stock motor with lg injectors at around 23 psi.

i think they are the one of best suited turbo to the rb25 you can get.

a wise man "nismoid" once said, a poor man pays twice

so why choose a 3076 to get the same response and less power?

you then want more power so you sell it and get a 3582.

get a 3582 to begin with and do the job once.

as far as internal gate's go above 20 psi,

the 3582r-iw with .82 rear has no boost control issues that i have found when set up correctly.

post-24852-1239583376_thumb.jpg

thanks dangerman! well this is the turbo im really looking at going 2!

i only wanna run around 1.3bar because motor is still stock, motor has run 1.3bar for 2yrs nearly now and no signs of giving in yet lol

where is the best place 2 start looking? price wise etc.

Two things:

1) If you aren't going to get >250rwkw on a GT3076R, then you won't on a GT3582R either - both can flow that power level at that boost level without an issue.

2) A .82a/r GT3582R feels WAY spongier "around town" driving than a GT3076R, saying they respond/drive the same as a GT3076R is ridiculous.

Agreed fully with Nismoid, recommending a .82 GT35R over a GT3076R is basically saying "Why get 280-300rwkw with good response when you can spend the same and make 280-300rwkw with more lag??" There is a dude on here who has cracked 350rwkw with a .68a/r GT30R running E85 on his RB25DET. GT30R ftw.

Two things:

1) If you aren't going to get >250rwkw on a GT3076R, then you won't on a GT3582R either - both can flow that power level at that boost level without an issue.

2) A .82a/r GT3582R feels WAY spongier "around town" driving than a GT3076R, saying they respond/drive the same as a GT3076R is ridiculous.

Agreed fully with Nismoid, recommending a .82 GT35R over a GT3076R is basically saying "Why get 280-300rwkw with good response when you can spend the same and make 280-300rwkw with more lag??" There is a dude on here who has cracked 350rwkw with a .68a/r GT30R running E85 on his RB25DET. GT30R ftw.

im assuming you have a 3076 dyno print out to compare to mine?

or is all that just your personal opinion without actually owning one?

spongier?

the host is asking about drag racing not going shopping

Im glad Lith said it and not me lol...

But come on, a bit of logic.

The larger compressor wheel in the GT35 cannot be as efficient as the GT30. It flows more, and a reasonable amount more too considering the 50-70rwkw

From what i remember in my GT3X days, the rear ends on them are identical, its just the front wheel thats changed... so going to a larger front wheel whilst making more power/flow (clearly), is not going to have the same response.

A dyno print out isnt a good gauge either... anyone can load up harder and get a better curve.

Hey Dangerman hows things mate.

I think Lithium is refering to my HKS3037 on E85.

Heres a plot with Adrians and my car on the same dyno (Willall's)

GT3582 vs HKS3037 .68

Lee

Edit: Picture not working properly but is on the last page of the E85 thread up the top.^^^^^

post-46183-1239679793.jpg

Edited by RB25DETS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...