Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^+1

Yes what Sheriff Wan said.

If you check it after the car has been driven / warmed up, the oil level will not be accurate.

Check it first thing in the morning is the best, so a cold engine.

^Yes thats right.

The oil must settle 1st.

If you read the oil dip stick while the engine is running, oil pressure will build up and again, oil will be all over the dip stick and you wont get s correct reading.

I agree with the guys, And I recommend oil to be checked first thing in the morning as the car hasn't been started for many hours. I even recommend that for changing oil so that all the oil is down the bottom. If gota do it after u been drinving the car than u must stop the car for at least 2 hours, or more if possible.

I don't agree.

hot dip it within 20 minutes of stopping the engine.

Remember that oil is viscous, therefore it 'expands' and 'contracts' under different temperatures - so it's probably ideal to check your oil when it's warm to simulate oil level when the engine is actually running.

So do I (disagree)!

You can check the oil level any time you like, as long as the engine isn't running, and the car is on level ground. If the engine has been running, leave it for as little as a minute before checking. After all, it's only a rough indication of oil quantity - it's either visible on the dipstick, or it's not. If it's visible, it's either high or it's low.

And always run the engine for a few minutes before changing the oil - the oil flows out much easier when it's warm.

If gota do it after u been drinving the car than u must stop the car for at least 2 hours, or more if possible.

Definitely doesn't take 2 hours for all your oil to drip/seep back to sump. 15-20 minutes if car has been driven and then when you've pulled the sump plug leave it out whilst you change filter and clean up, even go make yourself a coffee. I normally leave plug out for 20 minutes or more.

the skyline manual I have says to check the oil when the engine is at operating temperature and has been off for a few minutes.

for best results make sure the car is on level ground, pull the dipstick out and wipe it, then dip it again to check the level

I drop my oil when it is at operating temperature and let it drain for about 20 minutes to get as much of the old oil out.

just have to be quick moving your hand out of the way when undoing the sump plug, because naturally, hot oil burns like a bastard lol

Definitely doesn't take 2 hours for all your oil to drip/seep back to sump. 15-20 minutes if car has been driven and then when you've pulled the sump plug leave it out whilst you change filter and clean up, even go make yourself a coffee. I normally leave plug out for 20 minutes or more.

Yeah you probably right, I just like being on the safe side, n wait a bit longer to let all the oil go down.

I drop my oil when it is at operating temperature and let it drain for about 20 minutes to get as much of the old oil out.

just have to be quick moving your hand out of the way when undoing the sump plug, because naturally, hot oil burns like a bastard lol

i always used an open spanner after undoing the sump plug with a socket.

takes a while for the hot oil to start dripping but when it does use the spanner and let it drop into the oil so you dont get 2nd degree oil burns.

make your tea as stated earlier then pour the oil into an old oil jug (remember you are not meant to bin it - recycle man) and grab the plug out or your drip tray when you can see it, wipe it with a rag and bung it back in there.

used to be able to cope tith hot oil but now i have girly office hands it burns like a bitch.

i also believe that oil levels should be checked at cold as this allows the oil to settle, and when adding oil you are not heating it up to operating temp before adding it. therefore factors such as heat and the expansion or retraction of oil variables are reduced. dip stick markings in my opinion would indicate the absolute reading at the period where conditions are least subject to variables such as oil in the motor and temp - ie ambient temp after the greatest portion of the oil has dropped to the sump.

my 2c :(

i cant believe it had to be asked, but spose better than not asking.

might i also add dean you should check it regularly. I check mine when i wash her usually as habit, along with coolant levels, washer bottle, power steer and glance over brake fluid etc. Its always better to check it before problems develop, coz its usually one of your first signs somethings going wrong.

Other than an automatic transmission and power steer almost every fluid on your car is DESIGNED to be checked cold. The dipstick is not designed to allow for heat expansion as its a poofteenth effect. WHY cold and after sitting for a while? Coz its a true reading as almost all the oil has dropped back to the engines sump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...