Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All

I own a 1996 Skyline R33 Gts25t S2 and recently just discovered the part where the top radiator hose connects to on the inlet manifold has broken away so was thinking about replacing the intake manifold to a front facing one. Does any one know if they require dyno tuning as I hear some plenums lean out the no 6 cylinder. Also does any one have any experience with the advance torque motersport front facing plenums? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Kailaas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265558-front-facing-plenum-advice/
Share on other sites

I would advise re tuning as it does change alot of things, it takes about a metre of intercooler piping out of the equation

Haven't come across those plenums but a friend of mine used the plazmaman plenum and it came up sweet

Yeah I was looking at the plazmaman ones and would have most probably got one of those ones if the part where the radiator hose connects to wasnt broken. As for getting it fixed im not to sure as how to get the plenum of the car as most guys will only fix it if I remove the plenum :S

dont get the one you suggested. i just looked at there website and there nothing more than a new bit of metal welded onto what looks like a very poor copy of a greddy inlet thats had the end bit cut off. also they say you will have to mod the thermostat housing. crap design if you have to do that. also the plazman still uses the oem lower half. if you need and must have a new inlet get a ku enginering one and your car will need a remap after it.

dont get the one you suggested. i just looked at there website and there nothing more than a new bit of metal welded onto what looks like a very poor copy of a greddy inlet thats had the end bit cut off. also they say you will have to mod the thermostat housing. crap design if you have to do that. also the plazman still uses the oem lower half. if you need and must have a new inlet get a ku enginering one and your car will need a remap after it.

Thanks for your help. Where can I find a ku enginering inlet? I just had a breif look on google but could not find anything.

Cheers

The ku ones are a huge task to fit....

  • need to be faced (they bend like a banana so u wont be able to do them up without having a leak)
  • sensor provisions on coolant outlet need to be re-routed else they hit against sensor
  • coolant apparatus need to be modified
  • thermostat housing needs to be modified
  • longer accelerator cable is needed(front r31 skyline will do the trick)

You will need a retune for sure, expect better off boost response and also more mid range and top end power

hah, you guys should see the monstrosity i'm rocking in my hcr32.. it was custom built and apparently engineered using some air dynamics program and trumpeting inside (i don't know if i believe them a 100%) but regardless, its massive, i got rid of a ton of piping and i've got tons of torque and low end comparatively speaking. besides, its an rb20.

Truly a monstrosity though.. :)

Edited by Paradis v.1

Pretty sure the stock manifold can support more power than the internals can handle. However if you have one of those Chinese intercooler setups then you will benefit from the reduced intercooler piping.

If you don't have a front mount yet get greddy/trust one that plumbs straight up to you factory piping.

[edit] ah just read it has to be taken off to be fix, K-LESS talk to http://www.boostedperformance.co.nz/,

they use to do these installed for $700

1.JPG

Edited by daxter
Pretty sure the stock manifold can support more power than the internals can handle. However if you have one of those Chinese intercooler setups then you will benefit from the reduced intercooler piping.

If you don't have a front mount yet get greddy/trust one that plumbs straight up to you factory piping.

[edit] ah just read it has to be taken off to be fix, K-LESS talk to http://www.boostedperformance.co.nz/,

they use to do these installed for $700

1.JPG

Hey Daxter. The picture of the plenum you have showed me still retains the factory intake runners. The part that comes of the factory intake runners which the top radiator hose connects to is broken so I am trying to find one that replaces the whole set up with out having the problems of running lean etc.

My car is pretty much standard just got the basic things. Full 3 inch Exausht, Front Mounted Intercooler, Apexi POD Filter, and a Tial External 38mm Waste Gate with a 0.8 bar spring but for some reason only still run 9 psi lol. Am tryna aim at geting 220 - 230kw at the wheels and get used to that before I aim for 250 - 300rwkw.

Cheers

Sounds like alot of work. Sounds like might just have to save up for a computer and get a RIPS or a Genuine Greddy Intake Manifold.

ya, the guy was planning to do a line of them in canada, built many off the model of his couple, but then his business went to hell, lost interest, etc etc. so i got it for a great deal. looks very boxy and odd though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...