Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how the hell did you manage to crack that banjo fitting?

lol I have no idea - was tight tight so maybe a pothole?

was all fine until trying to reach boost up expressway hill friday night, couldnt hold 0 psi without the car surging, turbo working on load and black oily smoke

so its split, oil is blowing thru the split onto the outside of the turbo (the leak i found) and forcing some excessive oil thru the exhaust turbine

so it ends up that the slide turbo is ok, but Ive ordered a new line set and a gt30

:dry:

went over the intercooler pipes and they are 100% perfect, good tight seals and wont leak on 1bar

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/rb-nissan-spe...ing-turbo-p5224

gt3071r or a gt3076r

6-bolt nissan Rb exhaust housing

$2150 plus lines

getting that sort of deal thru ATS, gave them the $300 worth of gear Id paid for (ceramic ball bearing pack, turbine shaft td05h & 16g.comp.wheel, 2x dead cores and jamesrb25's front/rear housing)

they've take that as the bb-pack and wheels were bnib, credited, and building the GT30r for me with oil line & waterline adapter

2k

so, the turbo is ok to sell. best offer gets it :/

found another source - bongo, fmic pipe, original nissan ribbed black rubber pipe that sat in the chassis hole (in/out engine bay) was splitting

replacing and making good now

waiting on new oil line and GT30

then reinstalling

  • 2 weeks later...

yeah had a stock rubber black pipe with a split. my bad

got the turbo yesterday, she's beautiful.

awaiting the lovely missus to come back with an 18mm C spanner to finish off the braided lines

then finish hooking her up. no rush just a little steady pace.

Image075.jpg

Image080.jpg

Image078.jpg

Image076.jpg

Image079.jpg

garrett core:

Image077.jpg

ready to go!

Image081.jpg

MASSIVE THANK YOU goes out to Adam (chef stagea) and Chris (kidafa) for offering to come over and help finish up.

Id arranged an mobile auto bloke to come out tomorrow for an hour or so, but Adam rang me and said he'd help out !

so I knuckled back down and got the turbo oil line on, did the manifold bolts up, got the block oil lead on tight and had a 15' C-spanner cut ready to access the turbo oil feed to tighten it up when the lads arrived.

quick iced coffee / woodstock & a chat and they got into it, wasnt much to be done and an hour later most was all good

dead battery and time constraints for the lads meant we couldnt start her up.

will tick the engine over in an hours time. check for oil/water and thats that

tune time, unless it needs some tightening or reworking, etc

so, cheers for Adam and Chris for their help. greatly appreciated. No knees means my hips and back take the load, and they're rooted atm.

big thankyou guys

where they driving 2 stag's the same colour? a rs4 and a 260?

if so i over took them on the express way this arvo, they were doing 80 in the hundred zone.

did you have a pic of the split cooler pipe?

how big was the split?

where they driving 2 stag's the same colour? a rs4 and a 260?

if so i over took them on the express way this arvo, they were doing 80 in the hundred zone.

Yeah that would have been us in LAZY mode :D

No worries with helping out Brendan. How did it end up? Shoot me a pm with your number so I can save it.

nice

yeah darren the hole in the engine bay airbox area had cut a slice thru the black original silicone joiner, after 12yrs :)

cheers chris, will do. yeah the battery was dead, was charging till 9 last night then went around the block, dumped oil, didnt do up a bolt that holds the stock water line (i took off earlier) onto the block.

heading out right now to grab some more oil, just a small bottle.

then will test again

booked for 2 weeks time for a tune, on the little drive around the block it belt completely different to the other turbo. wow. anyways got2go.

ehhhh does that mean everything needs to come off?

need more hands?

cheers ! nah its all good. will get to it soon and take my time

will need to just take off the intake pipes (2+ turbo air pod feed pipes) and then will be at the bottom of the turbo to take off and replace the split oil return feed rubber line

no biggie, just a fair bit of oil pooling in my garage LOL

>_<

got my sons birthday bbq tomorrow, so will undo tonight and hoefully have replaced tomorrow night / sunday.

sigh*

:down:

Good to here Brendan.

Did the intake pipe mod yesterday arvo. Think it made the induction noise less which is weird thought it would be louder with a metal pipe in the intake but its good less attention :D

the turbo is pretty insane

2500rpm and its wanting to get into positive boost, 3000rpm and 10psi is up

3500rpm and 16psi is up

wow

set up the ebc for 13psi and 16psi

just want to be safe with the safc/sitc/remap and so far so good.

running really well and pulls significantly harder than what Id imagined it would.

yeah anytime !!

will be best to wait for next Thurs 21st, dyno tune day :P

;)

but yeah you know where I live c'mon over ;)

my guess is 220kilobums atm, so surely she'll crack 240kw on the dyno, 250kw perhaps if i bolt on the extra injectors/controller

damn tho, she's fine. time for a drive..... again.... :no:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...