Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the issue isnt plug and play or the loom

the issue is the gearbox logic is inside the main ecu

so when you remove the standard ecu and install an aftermarket one

you throw all of the autobox logic code in the bin - ie; the ecu is a manual one

so the gearbox doesnt get a rest from the engine on gear change

your best solution is to piggyback something onto the current ecu

that way you get most of what you want and you retain the auto logic control

other models such as toyota have the auto logic in another ECU

so you can actually get auto powerfc versions etc

the chaser has an auto powerfc version and the setup looks ace

your able to edit the entire auto setup and how the gearchanges work

no you cant use an auto powerfc from another car, its a completely different setup, dont even bother trying to think about this one

so forget that one

piggybacking is easy and most workshops can do this

safc is piggyback, emanage is piggyback, some workshops can even remap the R34 GTT ECU (good idea, but costly)

if it was me i would do consider the following in order of preference

1. safc afc or afc neo

2. remap of r34 GTT ecu

3. nistune or emanage

the safc / afc are cheap and bulletproof

remap will be around $1000 ish all up

nistune / emanage maybe $800 ish

Thanks for your answer.. i already have an safc, but i do not know how much can i get out of it since i have no control of timing.. If i want to go at 600-700 hp i don't think i would be able to do it with safc, e-manage ultimate seems a more adequate solution..

Thanks for your answer.. i already have an safc, but i do not know how much can i get out of it since i have no control of timing.. If i want to go at 600-700 hp i don't think i would be able to do it with safc, e-manage ultimate seems a more adequate solution..

man if your goin for that sort of power, get the gearbox rebuilt, get a shift kit and then you can use a stand alone ECU :P

not to mention the numerous other amounts of problems your going to have with this engine going for that kinda power. Your gana need a plenum and TB, your gana need to remove the TCS, then your up for a stand alone ECU again. If you chasing that kinda power, get the gearbox rebuilt with a shift kit, power fc or haltech or wahtever tickles your fancy a decent stall kit and you will be set to go.

Edited by Sammy34

Ok so i have 2 ways, 1 go manual and use a standalone, 2 install a shift kit and use standalone, i want to know the costs of those 2.. though the 2 requires a rebuilt in the transmition.. Ok i will search for these..

Thank you all!!

You are very quick and full of informations! :down:

your current setup when the gearbox needs to change gears the ECU backs off the ignition timing so the gearbox can change freely

your issue, is - when you change the ECU - it (the new ECU) does not back off the igition timing as its a manual ECU (all aftermarket options for R34 GTT are manual)

so on gearchange the box doesnt get a rest from the engine so it would likely flare up and put stress on the gearbox

installing a shift kit does not fix the problem, in makes it worse

the shift kits makes the changes quicker and stronger, this amplifies the impact to the gearbox as it still doesnt get a rest from the engine on gearchange

so your options are

change to a manual gearbox

change to a mechanical autobox (ie one that doesnt need electronic change patterns) - from memory the vl turbo jatco box works like that, doesnt need auto-electronic ECU signals

judging by the above, its probably cheaper and easier to sell your car and buy a manual GTT then modify from there

Well because i'm in the process of a VQ30DETT engine conversion I had to get some custom parts like bellhousing adaptor plate and such.

I used a R33 GTST gearbox, and an aftermarket clutch and flywheel.

You'll need a fair amount of parts; pedal, plastics, new dash, rar rar rar.

Well because i'm in the process of a VQ30DETT engine conversion I had to get some custom parts like bellhousing adaptor plate and such.

I used a R33 GTST gearbox, and an aftermarket clutch and flywheel.

You'll need a fair amount of parts; pedal, plastics, new dash, rar rar rar.

By dash do you mean the whole dash or just the center console?

my dash I meant you can replace the speedo etc if you want, because the auto one says P, D, N, 1, 2, 3. I purchased a Nismo 320 KM/h Dash for $700.

Only centre console bit i replaced was the gear stick surround.

Oh i see, and i like this nismo speedo! So except the inside of the car what else will i need? Transmision box, axle, and???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...