Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not an importer, but the rule has always been the same: As long as you don't import a car manufactured WHILE it was locally available here in Australia, then you're fine.

Example 1: the R32 GT-R was available from 1989 through to 1993, but was only officially sold here through Nissan in around 1992, so anything before or after the time they were OFFICIALLY on sale via Nissan Australia is okay to bring into the country. You can also bring in any(?) GTS or GTSt R32s because they were never available here at all...

Example 2: the Z32 300ZX was never officially brought into Australia with the twin-turbo VG30, so you CAN import one of them because it's different from what Nissan offered.

Example 3: the S15 Silvia was also only brought into the country for a certain period, so anything outside that time is fine. Also, the S15 Varietta was never available at all, so you can get one of those too (but they are pretty rare, and are all non-turboed SR20s with an auto-box).

r35 GTR only had approval to import as a brand new car.. which means the window is now closed permanently.. With the yen the way it is the aussie ones are cheaper anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266126-gtr-r35/page/2/#findComment-4555834
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...