Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im currently stripping my 33 GTR back to standard to sell. Parts are to suit the 33 GTR but most to all will also suit the 33 GTST.

Im in Adelaide.

All prices are ONO and are negotiable.

Freight will be at buyers expense on top of written price.

Also if your in Adelaide ill be happy to deliver.

Most items are new and if there not they have traveled less then 1000kms on the car.

I haven’t got around to taking pictures yet but they will be up asap. If you need pictures now let me know and I can get them.

R33 GTR or GTST GREDDY Air Diversion panel

Its Aluminum With Greddy stamped on it.

Brand New still has the blue protective cover on it and in box.

$160

R33 GTR or GTST Plastic Air Diversion panel

This one runs from headlight to headlight. Never seen one like it.

Needs a bit of work to get perfect but looks to fit ok.

$120

R33 GTR or GTST Carbon GTR end caps.

To suit the R33 GTR wings.

Brand new still in the packet.

Hard to get I believe

$200

R33 GTR or GTST N1 Carbon Wing Blade

Used but in excellent condition. No cracks or sun fading etc.

Light as a feather.

Only on my car a short time.

$500

R33 GTR (unsure if it can be cut to GTST) Blank Key

Uncut still in box. Perfect condition.

Genuine GTR key

$120

GTR Plenum

Standered GTR Plenum

Bare. Perfect

$150

Jun Cam Gears

Used less then 1000Kms

Wouldnt know they had been used.

Purple

$375 pair

HKS Boost Gauge

Mechanical. White Faced.

Lights up green. Comes with cup

$150

HKS pods

Twin Pods. And Ali fitment

In excellent Condition.

$250

GTR intake pipe

Standered

$70

AFMs

Standered two.

Excellent condition

$175

All prices neg!

PM me

Cheers

JUST JAP have the GTR key for $69 AUD new, if you are willing to go below that price, im iterested ! can you post up pics for othere item ?

R33 GTR or GTST GREDDY Air Diversion panel

Its Aluminum With Greddy stamped on it.

Brand New still has the blue protective cover on it and in box.

$160

Got a pic?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...