Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

boost controller i wouldnt go for anything other than a greddy profec b spec2 myself... very very easy to use

high and low setting, peak can flash after each squirt if u want, you can also hardwire it in to the car so its not visable just a button somwhere to go from high and low. BITSUS did a topic back a bit using his window de icing switch...

as for computers im unsure of whats out there for the m35s.. im sure somehing with the same engin would have somting out there.. cheer adam.

heys guys as the topic suggests , just wanna get an idea of which way to got without alot of mucking around

cheers

Your best EBC for the $ is the Jaycar IEBC. The 'cheapest' boost increase is to re-arrange the factory plumbing & use the original restrictor as a bleed.

I'm running an IEBC on my C34 (which will be dyno mapped Wednesday) currently at 0.6-0.65bar, an adjustable wastegate rod on my DR, and ECU-mapped on my Z. The IEBC brings the boost on much quicker than the others, and allows higher boost at quite low engine speeds. I plan on fitting the DR & Z with IEBC's as well - I think it will make quite a difference to the spool time of the 'big' TO3 on the FJ20, and more flexibility to the T3/T4 on the Z.

1) from the research ive done on the m35,an aftermarket piggy back computer (usual suspects like haltech etc may have something, havent looked into it that much) with boost control would probably be the best method (bear in mind the jacks would consider it "illegal" unless u can get one that can be locked after a tune and still meets emissions),this way the stock ecu can be used for idle ,shift logic in auto's etc. this way u can even up the afr and add some boost safely and u have the flexibility too add more mods in the future.

* My personal preference would be the Haltech Interceptor because it is a piggyback ecu ,has good customer support and a reasonable price mind u it doesnt have the functions of the more extreme ecu's.i dont know the models it supports though (damn adobe)

2) aftermarket boost control,there are about a billion types and everyone prefers one or another

* In my series 2 C34 Stagea i have the HDI SBC Type-D with boost gauge after a dyno run too check AFR's and dial in the two settings it has been perfect,i also installed it my self with little difficulty also at $370 odd bucks it is prcied well

just my 2 cents hope it helped a bit

How much boost do your want?

Do you realise that in sock form the car is already running 14-15psi.

The only benifit of a boost controller would be to get the boost to come on sooner.

That is unless you have already installed a high flowed turbo. In that case you will want one to get the boost to come on earlier.

How much boost do your want?

Do you realise that in sock form the car is already running 14-15psi.

The only benifit of a boost controller would be to get the boost to come on sooner.

That is unless you have already installed a high flowed turbo. In that case you will want one to get the boost to come on earlier.

andy yes i do realise stock boost is around the 15 mark i just wanted an idea of what would suit these types of cars better

cheers damo

andy yes i do realise stock boost is around the 15 mark i just wanted an idea of what would suit these types of cars better

cheers damo

I have heard that the Haltech has been fitted to the M35 successfully.

* In my series 2 C34 Stagea i have the HDI SBC Type-D with boost gauge after a dyno run too check AFR's and dial in the two settings it has been perfect,i also installed it my self with little difficulty also at $370 odd bucks it is prcied well

just my 2 cents hope it helped a bit

+1 to the HDI SBC Type-D with boost gauge. Performance Wise has them for only $345 incl. post - http://performance-wise.com/page42.htm

:wacko:

+1 for the Blitz profec B, had one and it was awesome. will be getting another one for this car

andy, with an EBC you can ramp the boost up and make it come on faster than stock, it doesnt only allow for adjustment. so its entirely possible there is a little more down the bottom. it kinda is a little laggy :woot:

i had a HKS EVC5 on my evo 8

works well

with full exhaust and boos i got 200kwatw

help 24psi of boost safely all the way to redline

EBC's seem to hold boost steadily through out the rev range compared to manual bleed valve etc

I'm getting a GReddy Profec B spec 2 installed on Wednesday. Looking forward to having it done, and will offer some feedback (and maybe dyno graphs if I decide to get them done) after that.

If you have a good Vipec/Link installer in your area get one and that will take care of everything including boost control.

For a stand alone boost controller you can't beat the Jaycar IEBC for effectiveness and price.

i was about to ask that question, i was a bit concerned when i saw the boost guage nudge 1 bar.

we always ran eboosts on Rb powered stuff with haltechs, microtechs and Apexis, but the M35 engine management with the automatic is a different animal. would definately have to be a piggy back controlling fuel and ignition only leaving factory ecu to control trans.

How much boost do your want?

Do you realise that in sock form the car is already running 14-15psi.

The only benifit of a boost controller would be to get the boost to come on sooner.

That is unless you have already installed a high flowed turbo. In that case you will want one to get the boost to come on earlier.

Profec B spec 2 is installed, here are the pre- and post-install graphs. Some tweaking to the PFC was done as well, and figures are measured at the rear wheels only...

Graphpre-EBCweb.jpg

Graphpost-EBCweb.jpg

Profec B spec 2 is installed, here are the pre- and post-install graphs. Some tweaking to the PFC was done as well, and figures are measured at the rear wheels only...

Graphpre-EBCweb.jpg

Graphpost-EBCweb.jpg

EBC is very worthwhile. What other mods do you have?
EBC is very worthwhile. What other mods do you have?

Engine wise?

  • GReddy FMIC (return-feed style so the piping goes back through the standard holes);
  • APEXi PowerFC;
  • Walbro replacement fuel pump
  • bell-mouth style dump/front pipe
  • high-flow catalytic converter
  • 3" cat-back exhaust

I think that about covers the mods, other than the fact that my car is a manual, which may also account for a few extra kW...

Yesterday I drove it straight home from the workshop because I had no need or want to go anywhere (a trip of less than 10mins). Today I drove it around a fair bit, and only on the low boost setting (7psi, where it used to already run on 10psi before the EBC install). It goes almost as well on 7psi (notice that there's a difference of maybe 2kW peak power from the pre-EBC run on 10psi), but the way it comes on boost is smoother. When I take it for a drive on 10psi, I'll provide some more feedback on how it feels compared to before.

Okay, I've just driven the car on 10psi and gave it two good squirts.

Fffffffffaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrkkkkkkkkk!!!

I'm a happy boy! Better boost control and more power, how could I complain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a thought, was that car and auto at any point of its life? If so, maybe whoever bridged the inhibitor switch/circuit did a not so good job.
    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
×
×
  • Create New...