Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All

Decided to sell the stolen recovered R33 i have as not much interest in complete car its a series 1 1994 model

It still has remaining parts

RB25DET motor complete with wiring ECU etc $1600.00 (no gearbox)

3 inch catback exhaust with jasma muffler $300

burgundy tail lights $50 each

diff $250

rear bar maroon $100

rear reo $70

front reo cut for front mount $80

front bar has one split on lower section $100

climate control $60

guards white $70ea

doors white $100ea

boot lid with factoy spoiler and smaller genuine nissan lip $200

washer bottle $35

rolling shell $700

Note car has no brake calipers..

Plus more little parts PM may have it

Or complete car $2500.00

Car in Jindabyne I can have delivered to most states good price.

Thanks

Daniel.

post-3004-1240310933_thumb.jpg

post-3004-1240310984_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266472-wrecking-r33-gtst-series-1/
Share on other sites

mate do you have a good condition gear knob? want one without the wear and tear and sun damage. let me know if you do and how much you want posted to melbourne.

Hey mate,

I notice in the pic you are lacking a passenger side door... but if you still have a drivers side i'm after a working power window motor/regulator.

Cheers

Camden

mate do you have a good condition gear knob? want one without the wear and tear and sun damage. let me know if you do and how much you want posted to melbourne.

sorry dont have one...

Hey mate,

I notice in the pic you are lacking a passenger side door... but if you still have a drivers side i'm after a working power window motor/regulator.

Cheers

Camden

no drivers door either sorry

exhaust now sold...

hay mate whats is your number if you still got some parts left i need a full 1 lenght tail shaft wheeels front bar side things good backs yell i need heaps of suff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.
    • So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this   I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.  
    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
×
×
  • Create New...