Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You have a R34 GTT, the Side Mount Intercooler should be fine for just over 200 kW's.

Yeah so you want to run 11 Psi (+0.7 Bar) which is what a GTR would run... Well 10.9 Psi...

From memory GTS-T's / GTT's run about 7 Psi (+0.5 Bar)

Correct me if I am wrong...

You should be fine with your Standard SMIC, as that's what ppl with R32 and R33 GTS-T's can use (the R34 GTT) to upgrade to to run just over 200 kW's.

Best to get your Boost controller installed, at the same time run a dyno tune just to make sure.

RE Customs and Racepace (just to name a few garages) can do it for you.

Cool!

Mate,

First off you need to know what your future goals are intended for your car.

Do you wanna have a 300kw weapon? Or do you just want a ordinary daily 200kw Skyline?

Many of times i've seen people buy upgrades for their cars and have wasted money as their intentions have changed, whether it's due to more power or selling the car!

If you want the best from 11psi, let me suggest this.

You already have exhaust

- Air Filter suggest Apexi (ain't shit unless you have it boxed off with some cold air going straight to it)

- ECU not needed, Re-Map is fine. There is a guy on the forum in Melbourne..Dr Drift...he does Nistunes and will re-map your standard ECU.

- Spark Plugs gapped to 0.8mm

- Have a VERY GOOD look at your coils..are they split?...good working order?..If not, invest in some Splitfires as these are a common culprit to missfires.

- Exedy heavy duty clutch..better to change it now otherwise you'll be left on the side of the road with the smell of burnt clutch in no time.

- Brake Pads..Greenstuff, Ferodo, Bendix, tehse are good brands, anything in their Top of the line range are fine.

NO GOOD GOING FAST IF YOU CAN'T STOP FAST.

Now if you want to enjoy your power...upgrading handling will be better than any performance upgrade HANDS DOWN!

Invest in Coilovers..Expect to pay $2000+

Swaybars..best bang for buck.

HICAS lock bar...

All these parts if correctly tunes will combine and unite into a very enjoyable street car.

Hope this al helps.

^^^ agree with most of this

- I wouldnt be getting the remapped ECU though, i'd get PFC or if u cant afford it SAFC

- Also no point upgrading clutch and coilpacks until they fail if you only drive around the city - you'll be able to drive it on its last legs to the workshop when the clutch is finished

- Also the stock pads are pretty good in my experience, wouldnt bother upgrading until they next need to be serviced

Just so you also know, back in the day i boosted my stock s2 nylon turbo to 12psi with a t-piece that would spike and creep. It never blew and was it very good nick even though it had done over 120K's.

Basically what I mentioned will hopefully bring out the best potential out of the standard parts you have on your car.

Re-Map is just as good as PowerFC (up to an extent ie;260+rwkw) been proven time and time again.

OK, powerFC may have a larger map to tune from, but every tuner knows that not all of the map is even used.

- Coilpacks are not needed unless they are cracked or failing, which I stated in my previous post.

- I'd change cutch just to be on the safe side. Once you upgrade the power, you'll be hooked and just wanna put yout foot down at every chance you get. Lol..I did!

Good luck with all of it!

if i were u i would sell the boost controller.

get a cooler (i have a saber one and have no problems with it but there are hundreds out there to choose from)

then buy an ecu with a built in boost controller like a wolf or something then u dont have stuff u dont really need, less stuff in ur cabin for cops to have a look at as well.

imo subtle mods that are easy to hide are much better.

do it once and do it properly.

and as said above handling is important as well.

Edited by GUN_METAL_GTR32
Mate,

First off you need to know what your future goals are intended for your car.

Do you wanna have a 300kw weapon? Or do you just want a ordinary daily 200kw Skyline?

Many of times i've seen people buy upgrades for their cars and have wasted money as their intentions have changed, whether it's due to more power or selling the car!

If you want the best from 11psi, let me suggest this.

You already have exhaust

- Air Filter suggest Apexi (ain't shit unless you have it boxed off with some cold air going straight to it)

- ECU not needed, Re-Map is fine. There is a guy on the forum in Melbourne..Dr Drift...he does Nistunes and will re-map your standard ECU.

- Spark Plugs gapped to 0.8mm

- Have a VERY GOOD look at your coils..are they split?...good working order?..If not, invest in some Splitfires as these are a common culprit to missfires.

- Exedy heavy duty clutch..better to change it now otherwise you'll be left on the side of the road with the smell of burnt clutch in no time.

- Brake Pads..Greenstuff, Ferodo, Bendix, tehse are good brands, anything in their Top of the line range are fine.

NO GOOD GOING FAST IF YOU CAN'T STOP FAST.

Now if you want to enjoy your power...upgrading handling will be better than any performance upgrade HANDS DOWN!

Invest in Coilovers..Expect to pay $2000+

Swaybars..best bang for buck.

HICAS lock bar...

All these parts if correctly tunes will combine and unite into a very enjoyable street car.

Hope this al helps.

ok, to make it simple and easy, all i wanted and intended for my car in a year or 3, is just to make it my daily drive, not going on the track or race or any kind, not planning getting remap or getting aftermarket ecu, or turbo upgrade, or any big upgrades, so basically, have no plans of getting the car over 200 rwkw not until in a few years..all i wanted is, to install my EBC to control the boost, when to use high and low, if say i am running 10-11 psi with my mods right now..not intended to upped more boost which i know i CAN NOT do it bcoz of the standard parts i have at the moment..

i think i made everything so complicated, i should have the topic. "IS IT POSSIBLE TO INSTALL MY EBC INTENDED ONLY TO CONTROL HIGH AND LOW BOOST"

EBC can do anything...High Low Med...

Will your car run "SMOOTHLY" so to say, maybe, maybe not!

Simple answer for your question is YES!

cheerz R2THEJ...

its easier for me to decide now after reading all those advices and comments as i am pretty new to this turbo and skylines stuff..just for the record, my er34 is my first car, so hoping not to stuff it up with my silly decisions in the future, hence why im on here...

fyi, the r34 smic is an upgrade for us r33 folk. im running 10psi (rb20 actuator controlled) on full 3" zorst, metal cat, r34 smic, pod (wank) and standard ecu. 11psi is "safe" in my opinion. my car has been in this state of tune for atleast the last year, and i have a heavy foot. no issues

remember, the dyno is not 100% accurate to road conditions. the airflow especially mainly caters for those with FMIC (big fan pointed at the front bar) but doesnt look like it gets much air to the side mounts. keep the EBC. if you plan on modding further it will come in handy

Hijack,

Basti, in regards to the RB20 actuator, how do you have the vacumn hoses connected, as i have the same setup?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...