Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a lot of people say that a 3" exhaust system is far too big for a naturally aspirated engine, and swear buy putting a 2 1/2" is buy far the best option.

im interested to hear what systems people are running on there n/a's and there 2 cents on the matter

which do you think is the better choice? 3" or 2 1/2"

Edited by j-qual
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266913-exhaust-size/
Share on other sites

Ive got 3 inch with the car

havent driven one with 2.5inch

I get heaps of complements with the silencer out sounds insane, with silencer in it sounds quiet as stock

Performance feels better than standard exhaust aswell i think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266913-exhaust-size/#findComment-4554426
Share on other sites

hey, i got some 2.5" twins n it sounds fine, however i spent like $200 on a hi performance muff.

before i had a str8 4" cannon. = i couldnt hear anyone inside the car whilst driving.

NAs are alot louda than FIs id so if you like the big 3" i sujest a gd muffla = still sounds sporty and you can hear the cd player playn aswell :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266913-exhaust-size/#findComment-4554476
Share on other sites

g'day james,

this topic has been covered quite extensively throughout the forums. it was proven that you can get away with a 3" system without too much loss of volumetric efficiency on an R34 RB25DE NEO however on an R33 a 2.5" system is considered ideal.

in your case if you are looking for an increase in peak power go 3" and if you're looking for response along with a mild increase 2.5".

have a search throughout the forums and you'll find loads of info supporting those.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266913-exhaust-size/#findComment-4554552
Share on other sites

yeh thanks guys and girl for ur input on the topic..

i thought the 2.5" was the right way to go...

im just worried about the car being to loud once i get the system fitted. atm i have a 5"canon on it and it sounds like shit (came with the car, i thinking its a no brander).... so wanted something sounding a little meaner.... i was gonna change the canon but as i said worried about the loud deep drone most na's have. and now im thinking of putting a fresh system in it...

r33 na's are stock 2.5" yeh :/ ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266913-exhaust-size/#findComment-4555860
Share on other sites

gday buddy,

i just got the exhuast done on my 33 n/a. i was keen on a 3 inch but every place i went to said there was no way they were goin to put one on it, its just too big for a n/a, and lacks pick up somethin shockin.

i went with a 2 1/2 inch, extractors, metal cat, and straight through muffler, the resinator is comin off soon but i think it sounds awesome, has a really mean idle, and all the way through the rev range.

thats just my 2 cents worth any way

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266913-exhaust-size/#findComment-4556334
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...