Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The central loccking isn't working on the car ( Stagea M35) and both key don't seem to do anything. I was wondering if it's the batteries. I took the single screw out of the remote part of the key but it doesn't seem to want to come apart. Any hints?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267017-how-to-replace-key-battery-on-m35/
Share on other sites

Well if its the same as my S1 key then once you take the screw out the case is held together with clips so i used a stanley knife to make a small opening and then put a small screwdiver in the gap and turned it and it came apart (my beatery was a Panasonic CR1620 3v).

If your central locking doesn't work off the key (and the key opens the door OK) try the lock buttons on the door and see if they work.

It is possible to disable the remote locking ( I saw the instructions somewhere) but I don't know how to re-enable it if that is what has been done.

yeh remove screw and lever inbetween cover at base of key shaft. part number mentioned is correct.

Well if its the same as my S1 key then once you take the screw out the case is held together with clips so i used a stanley knife to make a small opening and then put a small screwdiver in the gap and turned it and it came apart (my beatery was a Panasonic CR1620 3v).

If your central locking doesn't work off the key (and the key opens the door OK) try the lock buttons on the door and see if they work.

It is possible to disable the remote locking ( I saw the instructions somewhere) but I don't know how to re-enable it if that is what has been done.

The guys are spot on. Remove screw, use a stanley knife or similar on the side of the key, run the blade along the join and twist gently and it pops right in half. The battery inside is a Panasonic CR 1620 3V.

stageakey.th.jpg

When you get a chance, please add this to the M35 info thread for future reference it anyone needs it :/

Thanks mate, I think my battery is getting low so I may need to do it very shortly.

Im not sure, I got it programed in Japan b nissan when I bought it. Might pay to check with Nissan here as they would have to do it for other cars.

there is a thread somewhere that you do it yourself

this was stolen from chooks thread .it didnt take much searching guys .here goes

nissan remotes can be programmed yourself by following some steps, so thats not a prob, of course dealers would never tell you that.

Just get in your vech , close all doors. Using your power lock switch , lock all doors. After doors are locked take your Ignition Key and insert it and remove it from ignition switch in a slow fashion , but consitant pace. (97 and earlyer are fast) When you see the hazzard lights flash, put key in ignition switch and turn to the On postion .. Do NOT CRANK or you will have to Start over .. After in the On postion .. Hit the Lock button on remote... Hazzard lights should flash..( note..you have to reprogram all remotes when adding a new one , if you don't your old remotes will not work ) If your doing just the one , turn igntion switch off and unlock door and get out and try it. If you are doing more than one. While still in Vech with Key on . After you hit the Lock button on Remote and hazzard light flashed .. with key still on .. use master lock switch unlock doors and relock and then hit Second Remote, Lights should flash again , repeat if adding a 3rd remote.. after done just turn key off and unlock door and get out and try.

all together now thanks chook

  • 1 month later...

Hi,

I have a M35 ARX build date 06/02, do I have a transponder type key where I have to get a special code from Nissan Japan?

Or can I buy your guy and do the steps to get it to work for central locking?

My key looks exactly like the one picture in the thread, and the same battery.

Just got a steel key cut and it turns the car on, so my car hasnt got the transponder. However I would like to find a key that has the 2 buttons for central locking. Anyone have a part number/where to buy for this so that I can do the steps listed above thus have a new remote key! Cheers for the help.

Not quite sure where you're at. You say you have the right key (with two buttons). Do they work? If not have you tested or replaced the battery? Having done that if it still doesn't work have you tried the steps above (from mike's post out of Chook's thread). Why do you think that the fact that the new key you have had cut turns your car on proves that you haven't got a transponder? Or is it the case that you do have a key that works and you just want a spare? Have you PM'd Danwatt to see if his is still for sale? new ones are about $300 from Nissan.

Hey,

Sorry if I wasnt clear. I have a key remote right now that controls the central locking of the car that works. I was trying to get another spare from Nissan today and they are charging $224, a bit steep just for the central locking. I was worried that my key has a chip in it, so to figure that out i just got a steel key copy of the remote and put that key in the house and tried to start the car.

I guess installing a new alarm/immobiliser that can use the existing central locking motors would be the best bet as you avoid getting raped from Nissan parts. I will try a pm to him to see how much he is selling it.

Cheers

Couldn't get this to work on my AR-X. Can't get to the stage where the indicators flash..

Don't know if that has anything to do with my Aussie spec imobiliser that uses a "dongle" on the keyring rather than a remote.

Any ideas?

this was stolen from chooks thread .it didnt take much searching guys .here goes

nissan remotes can be programmed yourself by following some steps, so thats not a prob, of course dealers would never tell you that.

Just get in your vech , close all doors. Using your power lock switch , lock all doors. After doors are locked take your Ignition Key and insert it and remove it from ignition switch in a slow fashion , but consitant pace. (97 and earlyer are fast) When you see the hazzard lights flash, put key in ignition switch and turn to the On postion .. Do NOT CRANK or you will have to Start over .. After in the On postion .. Hit the Lock button on remote... Hazzard lights should flash..( note..you have to reprogram all remotes when adding a new one , if you don't your old remotes will not work ) If your doing just the one , turn igntion switch off and unlock door and get out and try it. If you are doing more than one. While still in Vech with Key on . After you hit the Lock button on Remote and hazzard light flashed .. with key still on .. use master lock switch unlock doors and relock and then hit Second Remote, Lights should flash again , repeat if adding a 3rd remote.. after done just turn key off and unlock door and get out and try.

all together now thanks chook

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...