Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone, im looking for some info on taller ratio gtr diff gearing.

ive heard r34 gtr can be used, is there anything else out there?

im sure i read a while ago the sss r32 gtr was using aftermarket gears.

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks, luke.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267048-r32-gtr-diff-gears/
Share on other sites

It depends how tall you are wanting to go and why??

The R34 GTR has a 3.55:1.

I have a set of 3.9**:1's here but I dont know what they are out of.

im probably looking at around the mid 3's, so r34 gears would be good. i want taller gears to drop the rpm of freeway travel, and try and get better economy :laugh:

not overly bothered by the fact itll have slower pick up, hopefully some mods will fix that :thumbsup:

so, anyone have r34 gtr front and rear gears for sale???

honestly if you want better economy by a different car. GTRs are performance cars. they will always be hungry and should be. putting 3.5s in there will just dull the performance and give you an astronomical theoretical top speed of 350+ that you will never get too. most people go the other way and do 4.4:1 for even better acceleration and sacrifice top speed down to about 260-270 or so which is plenty. :P

dont know, but 4.11's are 3100 at 110km, so im guessing around 3300-3500ish????

eng rpm x gear ratio x diff ratio x rolling diameter isnt it?

I realy doubt that... a stock geared GTR is 2600rpm for 100km, doubt it takes another 500rpm to get the extra 10ks... not brave enough to try now though as had a few... lol

Me thinks yours isnt exactly stock in that department...

Edited by bnr#@
What revs would 4.4:1 give you at 100Ks in a 32 GTR? Interested in doing the swap for those tighter tracks...

can't remember exactly, but it does buzz along a bit. lol. I am about to finish the new set-up which is OSG close ratio box, with the 4.4:1 diff gears, built N1 Nur motor, and tiny HKS GT-SS turbos. it should be pretty radical on corner exit now! and will have less top speed, but now have a chance of actually getting there.

I realy doubt that... a stock geared GTR is 2600rpm for 100km, doubt it takes another 500rpm to get the extra 10ks... not brave enough to try now though as had a few... lol

Me thinks yours isnt exactly stock in that department...

i doubt mine is modified(apart from 235/45r17's), sits at around 3000@100km, then around 3200@110km

ill have to see if i can get someone to record it with my phone.

I agree with Beer Baron.

I've tried multiple diff ratio's in the RWD with up over 300rwkw and even 3.9's kill the feel of the car. It transforms the car from a fast reving FUN sports car in to a dull and LAGGY car.

The longer ratio's make the car feel so so much laggier its not funny. Mods won't make up for the lack of FUN factor but it will push the speeds where the car may feel like its starting to really move to higher road speed. Not so good for those demerit points.

What really sucked about the longer ratio IMO was corner exit. It felt as if the car went from having a gear for every corner to having gears that were either too high or too low, that is unless I was willing to do stupid speeds on the street which is just silly.

The R34 GTR 6speed. Does that drop the highway RPM at 100km/h in top gear? Maybe a gearbox + diff swap is the answer?

Or... Another car.. The tuned LS1 auto purs along at a little over 1500rpm at 100km/h with 7.5-8.5l/100 on the calibrated trip computer. :P

Edited by TheRogue
  • 1 month later...
can anyone answer me if the R32 gtr diff is a 1.5 way or 1 way

and will it bolt straight into a r32 gtst??

pretty sure gtr/gtst diff internals are different. outside may be the same though...

standard diffs are generally classed as 1 way.

hope this helps.

i doubt mine is modified(apart from 235/45r17's), sits at around 3000@100km, then around 3200@110km

ill have to see if i can get someone to record it with my phone.

I remember getting around 3K (looked like 2950RPM or similar) in 5th gear @ 110km/h on 235/45/17, R33 :)

Speedo is slightly off by maybe 4km/h at this speed...

From here. (have to give credit)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ge...or-t244080.html

Use this.

http://racingdownloads.com/racing_software-22.html

And this.

http://www.jbskyline.net/R32/GTR/Specs/

From memory I thought I was knocking on 3100 @ 110. This is with a 26 and gtr box, with 4.375:1 gears (standard gts4 crown and pinion). Doesn't sound or feel nasty, just like driving a smaller 4 cyl car.

Can't take my car for a drive as it has almost all the front end out atm, new brakes and front driveshafts getting reconditioned.

Edited by heller44
  • 4 months later...
can't remember exactly, but it does buzz along a bit. lol. I am about to finish the new set-up which is OSG close ratio box, with the 4.4:1 diff gears, built N1 Nur motor, and tiny HKS GT-SS turbos. it should be pretty radical on corner exit now! and will have less top speed, but now have a chance of actually getting there.

Such a noobie question but where can I get 4.4:1 diff gears from?? As in purchase.

I remember getting around 3K (looked like 2950RPM or similar) in 5th gear @ 110km/h on 235/45/17, R33 ;)

Speedo is slightly off by maybe 4km/h at this speed...

I get 3K @ 110km/h on the sat nav, 2900 @ 100km/h on 235/45/17 R32 GTR VSpec II.

Not sure if I have stock internals in GB or Diff though

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...