Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Fellas,

My car has started to stall randomly while driving and while idleing.

For example, I would be driving my car 10-15 mins, and then it feel like the engine shuts down, then switches back on, the shuts down, switches back on, almost as though the fuel cuts in and out.??

The happens can happen whenever, full throttle, idle, cruising speed, you name it.

It'll happen to me 2-3 times while driving and frankly it's getting quite dangerous when my car stalls on a busy street.

WHen the problem occurs on idle, the rpm drops to almost 0, then bounce back up to 1000, then back down to almost 0, so strange? and it only occurs some times which really puzzles me?

SOmetimes I can go for a 30min drive and it doesn't happen...

DO you fellas have any idea what it might be?

Fuel pump? Coil packs? spark issue? Tune on the car?

ANy help would be great.

Cheers and have a good long w/e

Hi Fellas,

My car has started to stall randomly while driving and while idleing.

For example, I would be driving my car 10-15 mins, and then it feel like the engine shuts down, then switches back on, the shuts down, switches back on, almost as though the fuel cuts in and out.??

The happens can happen whenever, full throttle, idle, cruising speed, you name it.

It'll happen to me 2-3 times while driving and frankly it's getting quite dangerous when my car stalls on a busy street.

WHen the problem occurs on idle, the rpm drops to almost 0, then bounce back up to 1000, then back down to almost 0, so strange? and it only occurs some times which really puzzles me?

SOmetimes I can go for a 30min drive and it doesn't happen...

DO you fellas have any idea what it might be?

Fuel pump? Coil packs? spark issue? Tune on the car?

ANy help would be great.

Cheers and have a good long w/e

That happened to my 33, I replaced the Idle stepper motor, cleaned the AFM and repositioned the TPS. fixed it.

Good luck

CHeers Fellas, will get some carby cleaner tomorrow.

By the way, is it ok if I use degreaser instead of carby cleaner?

The reason I ask is because I got degreaser at home but no carby cleaner. Cheers fellas.

Hi Fellas,

My car has started to stall randomly while driving and while idleing.

For example, I would be driving my car 10-15 mins, and then it feel like the engine shuts down, then switches back on, the shuts down, switches back on, almost as though the fuel cuts in and out.??

The happens can happen whenever, full throttle, idle, cruising speed, you name it.

It'll happen to me 2-3 times while driving and frankly it's getting quite dangerous when my car stalls on a busy street.

WHen the problem occurs on idle, the rpm drops to almost 0, then bounce back up to 1000, then back down to almost 0, so strange? and it only occurs some times which really puzzles me?

SOmetimes I can go for a 30min drive and it doesn't happen...

DO you fellas have any idea what it might be?

Fuel pump? Coil packs? spark issue? Tune on the car?

ANy help would be great.

Cheers and have a good long w/e

The less residue you leave on the AFM the better - residue (especially oily crap) promotes more sh*t sticking to the wire element .... what I did with mine, flushed the element in the middle of the AFM with a bit of acetone using a little squiter / dropper.... watched all the brown shit come dripping off. Just gotta watch the acetone doesnt come into contact with the wall of the AFM for too long, being plastic, you wouldnt wanna melt it lol its lucky acetone evaporates quickly....

Hi fellas,

I got some carby cleaner yesterday and cleaned the wires in the AFM with it.

Alot of brown shit flowed off so it looks brand spankin new now.

It hasn't stalled since and I have a feeling the problem is solved (fingers crossed)

Thanks for all your help fellas, greatly appreciated.

Fellas,

The stalling thing happened again yesterday...... I must say but it's improved,

If it was a 8/10 pain in the arse last time, now it's about 2/10.

Nonetheless, it's still doing it??

Should I take out the AFM again and spray it again??

Is your BOV plumb back or atmo? Atmo vented BOVs have been known to cause the same problem. Could also be your Idle Air Control Valve? I think its called. Will probably need cleaning and the idle resetting eiter with the TPS or through the ECU.

When I had my 33 gtst the same thing happened to me. I did the above and it never happened again.

Here is a great tutorial for cleaning the IAC in case you're unsure what to do.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

Is your BOV plumb back or atmo? Atmo vented BOVs have been known to cause the same problem. Could also be your Idle Air Control Valve? I think its called. Will probably need cleaning and the idle resetting eiter with the TPS or through the ECU.

When I had my 33 gtst the same thing happened to me. I did the above and it never happened again.

Here is a great tutorial for cleaning the IAC in case you're unsure what to do.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

Yeah, I might give the ACC a clean.

It's strange, when idle drops, the voltage on the PFC displays 8.8v, maybe it's something to do with my alternator?

What puzzles me is that it can happen at any time, thats why I don't think it's the ACC. The stall can happen even when I am fully on boost, and bang it'll just cut out, then it will cut back in again... It can also randomly just happen on idle...

Maybe it's something to do with the tune???

I've narrowed it down to the following things:

1) Crank Angle Sensor

2) Fuel Pump

3) Harnesses to sensors

4) Ignition Control Module

5) 02 Sensor

6) Coil Packs

7) Spark Plugs

8) AFM

What do you fellas think?

series 1? sounds like the classic power transistor/ignition module is on its way out

It's a series 1, but it has a series 2 engine?

I've also recently placed the RB30 short block on it, with 256 in 264 exh cams, porged pistons, rods etc etc, and a GT35R turbo.

The car is currently on it's run in tune.

sometimes in the middle of driving the engine just stalls... it can usually be just pulled over onto the side of the road and started again.. sometimes it doesnt quite get to the point of stalling but just has an extreme lack of power and no acceleration ability for a few seconds..

I've read a few commodore threads and it seems that their problem is always the CAS...???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...