Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys don't really know much about this stuff so pretty much im just looking for a set of 5.1channel speakers to hook up to mostly my ps3 but occassionally my ipod or laptop.

have been looking at the logitech z5500

http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/speakers...24&cl=us,en

has pretty much everything, but no clue where to find it and prices i've heard are around 320-350ish.

any other suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267670-51-speakerswhat-to-buy/
Share on other sites

www.staticice.com.au

Good place to start for pricing.

Although i aint seen the Z5500 for less than basically an even $400 since the markets went to shit in Oct - if you can pickup for $320-$350 (the old pricing) i wanna know where :)

Other than that, have a bit of a google and read reviews of various things.

Whirlpool forum will usually have stuff, and if there is anything wrong you'll find out cause those guys love a whinge :D

I just bought this for the living room for PS3 etc. http://www.sony.com.au/product/dav-dz870w

the big benefit is you can connect VIA HDMI and optical cable for great quality picture and sound. also, the rear speakers are wireless which in my mind is a must have. nothing worse than trying to run wires for the rear speakers across the ceiling, or across the floor, or around the wall etc. AND it comes with an ipod digital media dock which is cool. works with my iphone too.

the sound out of it is great. and never mind the sony price of $1100. they are currently on sale at sony and JB hi-fi. not quite under $500, but not too far out of it. which is bloody awesome value.

thanks for the replies guys.

in regards to the sony one's looking for something with smaller rears and front speakers, and as you said wireless is a must, and im 99% sure the logitech one's have 4 satellites (so im assuming wireless??)

without looking too hard found the z5500's for $369 at Smartcom Computer Solutions (9553-6199). Any clue whether they sell them at jb? I'm sure I could get them at mate's rate's there :)

hey guys don't really know much about this stuff so pretty much im just looking for a set of 5.1channel speakers to hook up to mostly my ps3 but occassionally my ipod or laptop.

have been looking at the logitech z5500

http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/speakers...24&cl=us,en

has pretty much everything, but no clue where to find it and prices i've heard are around 320-350ish.

any other suggestions?

i think there average

The z-5500s are great for smaller rooms, also be on the look out for some kind of THX-certified Altec Lansing speakers.

From what I have read the Altec Lansing tend to have better mid range compared to Logitechs.

^^ also cos of the design of the (Z-5500) sub it's bass heavy and so it misses some mid-bass.

nice 28 - The Z-5500's isn't a wireless system, however, the discontinued Z-5450 had wireless rear speakers. Also, satellite speakers is just the name given to little speakers that reproduce sound only in the mid to high end pitch range.

Get Logitech Z-5500. Great speakers. I picked them up with the were about mid $500 - quite some years ago and they're still going great! I use it with the PS3 and the PC
Same here except for paying retail :P and the only prob I've had was when the .25c fuse blew.

i got the logitech z-5500 too. Awesome system for a smalish room. I got mine about 4 years ago from Harris computer store for $400. Ineteresting to see they havent changed price.

Edited by Pattygtst
wow can learn so much from reading a few posts.

Well let me re-state my question now.

What wireless speaker system, 2.5 channel, is worth buying, under 500?

and again thanks for the replies.

One thing you have to realize is that even the so called "wireless" systems still have the power cord running from the wireless speakers that must be connect to a power source somewhere (unless its running on batteries which I doubt it will).

Also, when you say wireless do you want all 6 speakers to be wireless? As the only wireless systems I have seen only have the 2 rear speakers "wireless" the front 3 & the sub woofer still has the wires.

Finally the only ones I think that are </=$500 are the Z5450s (not Z5500s, those aren't wireless) mentioned above.

There are a couple of entry level home theater DVD systems which have wireless rear speakers although I think most of them are over the $500 mark.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

if you want decent quality and decent sound, and wireless rears you aren't going to get any better at the price than the sony system above. there are some samsung systems etc that are only a little bit cheaper, but the fall in quality is huge. the logitech type systems are toys really. designed to be used with your PC etc in your bedroom. they are ok for their price, but don't be under any illusion that they are great speakers or processors. and no wireless of course.

yeah it's not stellar. even on the $$ models. if you want ultimate SQ then you need wire! but for lounge room systems where convenience is important wireless rears are a godsend.

  • 3 weeks later...
hey guys don't really know much about this stuff so pretty much im just looking for a set of 5.1channel speakers to hook up to mostly my ps3 but occassionally my ipod or laptop.

have been looking at the logitech z5500

http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/speakers...24&cl=us,en

has pretty much everything, but no clue where to find it and prices i've heard are around 320-350ish.

any other suggestions?

Get em they rock. I have some and ive never had trouble with em

^^ also cos of the design of the (Z-5500) sub it's bass heavy and so it misses some mid-bass.

nice 28 - The Z-5500's isn't a wireless system, however, the discontinued Z-5450 had wireless rear speakers. Also, satellite speakers is just the name given to little speakers that reproduce sound only in the mid to high end pitch range.

Same here except for paying retail :P and the only prob I've had was when the .25c fuse blew.

HAHA the exact same thing happened to mine went to dick smith and got about 10 of them for $3 since replacing havn't had any trouble with them, well worth the money :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...