Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm new on the forums. First post.

Finally time to buy a GTR. I have always wanted the R34, but now that the new one is out, I'm not sure which one to go for.

I have a thing for the old car, so given the choice between a tuned R34 and an R35 with similar levels of performance, I would choose the R34. I don't know all that much about cars beyond the basics, so my question is, how much money would it cost to tune an R34 to R35 levels of performance, if at all possible? I'm interested in handling and overall balance more than outright power. What do you guys think of something like that Mine's replica at Autostyle, or getting an immaculate stock one and do it from the ground up? I'm an older guy so I have a bit of money to play with.

Appreciate any inputs.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267870-tuned-r34-v-r35/
Share on other sites

Hi,

I'm new on the forums. First post.

Finally time to buy a GTR. I have always wanted the R34, but now that the new one is out, I'm not sure which one to go for.

I have a thing for the old car, so given the choice between a tuned R34 and an R35 with similar levels of performance, I would choose the R34. I don't know all that much about cars beyond the basics, so my question is, how much money would it cost to tune an R34 to R35 levels of performance, if at all possible? I'm interested in handling and overall balance more than outright power. What do you guys think of something like that Mine's replica at Autostyle, or getting an immaculate stock one and do it from the ground up? I'm an older guy so I have a bit of money to play with.

Appreciate any inputs.

Thanks

There is a thread about this "Tuned R34 vs R35"... Anyway...

Stock for stock the R35 GTR would win.

I would say you would have to spend a bit to get the R34 GTR to win over the R35 GTR.

The MCR R34 GTR in Japan was put to the test to race against a stock R35 GTR and the R34 won.

The Mines replica would suite your setup as Mine's concentrate to get an over balance, not just outright power as you have said.

To build a Mine's engine...

http://209.85.173.132/translate_c?hl=en&am...fAdIWofBrP23rrg

Stage I

Price: 1,365,000 Yen

Stage II

Price: 1,890,000 Yen

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?h...l%3Den%26sa%3DG

Air Intake / Brakes /ECU / Exhaust / Radiator / Suspension / Aerodynamics.

I the HOT 4's mag, Auto Style said the engine alone cost $65,000... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267870-tuned-r34-v-r35/#findComment-4567210
Share on other sites

R35, espically if you can get an ADM one. Warranty ftw over modified vehicle. Its going to be much more reliable and headache free. Buy, key, on, drive. With the R34 its going to be a long list of things that you will need to worry about to get it to the 360kw or so that the R35 enjoys. Remember that the R35 is a latest tech motor with all the fancy-pants that that brings.

But the price difference between the two is significant. About 100k. You can buy alot of go fast bits for 100k, even if your paying someone else to do it all for you. With even 25 - 30 k you could walk into most reputable tuners shops and say you want a rebuilt motor and 360 kw at the wheels please and they should be able to sort you out. But be careful, if you do that in the wrong workshop they will wind up taking all your money and giving you as little in return as possible.

Unless you enjoy tinkering with your motor. I personally dont mind so much when mine breaks as I have another car, and tinkering is half the fun with these things.

In the handling department, well I dont know. The 34 is lighter I believe but the 35 is probably a better engineered car, gearbox at the back, weight distribution and whatnot. But then if you spend a little bit on the 34's handling it will also handle like a dream, their not bad from factory anyway.

Between the modded 34 and the 35 I think the 34 would be the more aggressive angrier car. But the 35 would have more class and turn more heads. I'd have the 35, but I can certainly appreciate why people would want the 34.

my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267870-tuned-r34-v-r35/#findComment-4570156
Share on other sites

If you have the money get the R35 GTR and leave it stock. No need to worry about anything, and you have the performance.

Yuo buy an R34 GTR, you begine to modify it, things will start to go wrong, shake, rattle etc. It's part of the modifying game. In the end you will spend close to 100K playing witht he R34, might as well go the R35 with no headaches. Thats my point of view.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267870-tuned-r34-v-r35/#findComment-4573731
Share on other sites

If you have the money get the R35 GTR and leave it stock. No need to worry about anything, and you have the performance.

Yuo buy an R34 GTR, you begine to modify it, things will start to go wrong, shake, rattle etc. It's part of the modifying game. In the end you will spend close to 100K playing witht he R34, might as well go the R35 with no headaches. Thats my point of view.

true true

the R35 has shocked the world...... taken the world by storm & REvoloutionalised the motor industry.

and not many makes or models upset porsche the way the R35 GT-R did....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267870-tuned-r34-v-r35/#findComment-4573815
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...