Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if the front/dump pipe of a r33 gtst is the same as the ones for a s1 stag... dont see why it wouldnbt be as their both running rb25det's.

Justjap also have the same pipe listed for r33/r32 and wgnc34's....

Thinking about buying a 3" bellmouth zx force dump pipe tomorrow for the stag. Then time for a retune of SAFCII, SITC and EBC and i think im done on engine mods till its time for a bigger whistling friend. Maybe time for some slotted rotors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268139-frontdump-pipe-same-as-r33/
Share on other sites

I think if you buy one of the cheap brand dump pipes the R33 & R32 are the same pipe, the one I got for my 32 didn't sit quite right, so I suspect it was an R33 one. I used the one off my 32 on my S2 stagea and I had to cut it and realign the angle at the bottom straight section. Also had to add about 25mm length to the pipe to get it to meet up properly, this is for the S2 though.

Well chad how about I be the test dummy and ill post up how it goes :P

Also when are we taking both our racing heart equiped stags out with jetskis in tow?

When you tell me where i can get a decent tow bar from.

JJR dump pipe i got of justjap was listed for s2 .

think JJR forgot about the crossmember. had cut and straighten out the front/dump to fit it.

not alot of work. but for one that is listed to fit, it should fit

had the same thing with my s2 and the just jap bellmouth.. the quality at the turbo end flange was very average to.

i would not recomend the jjr bellmouth as you will need to spend the extra money going to the exhaust shop for them to fix it

Ok so it did fit.

When i first started the car their was a VERY ANOYING WEIIR vibration coming through the floor of the car around the G box area. Last for about 20 secs.. then dissapeared? Thinking it might have been hitting the floor of the stag, then settled itself down?

Drove around for a bit to let the beast warm up then gave it some. Car hit highest boost it ever has (13.something psi) so I turned down the ebc till it was hitting 12. So it must have made a difference :D

When you tell me where i can get a decent tow bar from.

Well the place I got mine from was well priced but they Fu(ked my rear bar (ended up getting it resprayed for me) and the interior needed some adjusting by myself before it all layed flat in the boot. Want to meet up so you can check it out?

So this vibrating was their thismornign again....

Took of the G box support cos it was might close to that and buzzed 2 mm off it on the very outer edge near the dump(its not sturctual dw!) Start up and its gone... Then it rattle a tiny bit again grrrr!

Realised its prob a mm or 2 from the floor of the stag and sometimes will vibrate on it but only for first couple of seconds or randomly for a couple of seconds when going slow.. Ill see how it goes and if it does it at all while cruising or at traffic lights.

Well the place I got mine from was well priced but they Fu(ked my rear bar (ended up getting it resprayed for me) and the interior needed some adjusting by myself before it all layed flat in the boot. Want to meet up so you can check it out?

Sure man, sounds good. I should be picking up the Stag on Wednesday, I'll prob be cruising around all weekend in it :P

So this vibrating was their thismornign again....

Took of the G box support cos it was might close to that and buzzed 2 mm off it on the very outer edge near the dump(its not sturctual dw!) Start up and its gone... Then it rattle a tiny bit again grrrr!

Realised its prob a mm or 2 from the floor of the stag and sometimes will vibrate on it but only for first couple of seconds or randomly for a couple of seconds when going slow.. Ill see how it goes and if it does it at all while cruising or at traffic lights.

If it keeps doing it just take it down to an exhaust shop and they should be able to heat the pipe and bend it slightly, if its stainless it might be to hard to bend.

yeah it only just taps it a tiny bit when it first starts then its gone....? Might loosen off the cat bolts a tiny tiny bit and see if that drops it down abit...

If that doesnt work ill take it off spray the seciton of pipe and under car where i think its rubbing drive around for a week or soo. rip it off and c where the paints gone to work out what i need to either smack flat or remove or if i need to get it bent slightly.

yeah it only just taps it a tiny bit when it first starts then its gone....? Might loosen off the cat bolts a tiny tiny bit and see if that drops it down abit...

If that doesnt work ill take it off spray the seciton of pipe and under car where i think its rubbing drive around for a week or soo. rip it off and c where the paints gone to work out what i need to either smack flat or remove or if i need to get it bent slightly.

Yep that'll work if you haven't got a gas set and its just touching in one small area.

Hey Chris, good to hear you got it on.

When i fitted mine myself, if you remember i wasn't too sure if it was on/sealed 100%. So when i got my 100k service, i got the guys at Boostworx to have a look at it. They told me a couple of bolts had dropped off (probably because i didn't/couldn't get them tight enough to start with) and they redid the entire thing properly. Maybe it's a bolt rattling around somewhere?

Hi nick! Long time no see :P Yeah their a prick to get at those bolts but it wont be one loose.... Got to them all in the end did change one of them to a 6mm allen key so it had a smaller head cos the bolt was fouling on the dump.

Dont really want boostworx doing much to the stag apart from tuning safcII and SITC truth be known, but we'll keep why off the forums :( cos their good blokes.

Well I went to D N T performance (exhaust shop here in adelaide) on sat to get a 3" off cut to do the intake pipe mod, while i was their I told them about the dump pip tapping the floor. They said to unbolt the cat back and just pull the dump pipe downwards to bend it a tiny bit. Yesterday arvo gave it a good yank and its all sweeettttt :blink:

your alot more game than i would be, pulling down on the pipe, i'd be worried about damaging the turbo casting. lol

just take it to the exhaust shop you went to and see if they'll fix it up for you, if you go in they aren't too busy, and you have cash with you, they'll probably fix it up cheap for you. it will only need to be cut and re-angled, maybe a small length added into it. shouldn't need to take the pipe out to fix up, we didn't when i fitted mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...