Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's good to keep an eye on your economy though, I don't drive a 3L R32 and a Stagea because I want to save fuel.. but if you're doing long trips then it's good to get the most out of each tank..

With the Stag, done several trips down south so far and I get ~600km to a 65L tank (~10.8L/100km), not bad for a 240awkw 2 tonne bus.

Around town I'm struggling to get 400km to a tank.

Oh and it seems to be more efficient at 140 than 110 :D

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268281-98l100km/page/2/#findComment-4579761
Share on other sites

My skyline averages ~11.3L/100km with about a 60:40 split for city:freeway driving.

Details can be found in the excel file:

http://members.iinet.net.au/~rodchinn/publ...kyline-fuel.xls

Pretty stock car and I don't boost often [very light foot].

I love visual representations of stuff so I've done the excel spreadsheets for all 3 cars I've owned ;)

That being said, there's some shocking fuel economies in here... do you guys run full throttle off every set of lights or something :verymad: ?

Edited by Psyrus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268281-98l100km/page/2/#findComment-4581319
Share on other sites

my old skyline did 700km on a run

mid 400s around town, was pushing 270rwhp

um the 350z on the otherhand gets at best 700km on tank around town... but if i pump on the power it reads 8km/litre LOL

about 600 a tank 60-70l

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268281-98l100km/page/2/#findComment-4582288
Share on other sites

Well i have now gone through half a tank in my R33, and have managed just under 200km's. I've been driving my car sooo softly, chaning gears at 2500rpm approx., keeping the turbo off-boost.

I think im going to be booking it in for a tune quite soon.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268281-98l100km/page/2/#findComment-4582434
Share on other sites

i got around 12.5L/100km's on stock boost just city driving with the occassional squirt, now on 10psi I get around 13.5L/100km.

Last tank i got 11.6L/100km's but that was cause half the tank was used on a hills cruise :D

I imagine purely freeway driving you'd get 9-10L/100km which is fairly good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268281-98l100km/page/2/#findComment-4582946
Share on other sites

yeh i didnt modify to get good fuel and am not really complaining about what i get. but u always want more for your money.. and econemy is how u get that.

if i give my throttle a little blip at idle i get bulk black fuel smoke out the back. and all my driving is off boost and around 3500rpm changes. and it takes about a week for the bumper to start showing signs of a rich car.

oh well... thats just the way it is.. i hope my 26 has a slightly leaner tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268281-98l100km/page/2/#findComment-4583046
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

After fitting the new fuel pump & reseting the stock ECU, with the latest batch of fuel, my fuel economy seem to have increased a bit into the 11.xL/100km range :thumbsup:

EDIT: That now puts it on par with the plain Camry

Edited by Mayuri Krab
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268281-98l100km/page/2/#findComment-4642666
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...