Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Me and a few mates were thnking about getting a track car for the dirt circuit racing in Whyalla (we live there). Buget of about $2.5k thinking a MA supra (ex-race), celica, s13 (ex-race) or a silhouette skyline. Any ideas?? would prefer an AWD car but RWD should be ok as well

Thanks in advance for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/
Share on other sites

2.5k won't get anything decent AWD - unless you get a Subaru Brumby ute!!! LOL Won't be overly competitive though.

For 2.5k I would pick up cheap ass R31, Manual Conversion, 2nd hand Extractors & exhaust, minispool diff and keep the change! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4574831
Share on other sites

I'd use the 2.5 k on moving away from whyalla..lol

2k on beer and pizza for mates to help

500 on fuel and truck rental

problem solved

buy a disposable car for a few hundred bucks

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4574989
Share on other sites

I would mid mount a 1jz / auto half cut into a $200 commodore. You could probably do it on your $2500 budget.

I would pay that much to move to whyalla :P . They have more motor sport facilities than Adelaide :- Power boat club, motocross, go Karts, drag racing, off road, speedway and a 200kph dirt circuit track.

The Truro and districts raceway will have an open day in September 2009, where we will have approx 30-40 cars on the track. If anyone has a car built by then they can come and practice. Now we have all the earth moving equipment out there the facility will progress quickly. Racing will commence in March/ April 2010 and we will be running practice sessions from Feb 2010.

Start building you cars now guys. I did 30 laps on the weekend in a stock falcon wagon and was as much fun as our old open wheeler. If you like drifting but don't have the budget, dirt circuit is an comparable option. I could keep the old ford sideways for a solid 650 meters at up to 100kph and you don't need big power to do it either.

Edited by GROWLY CUSTOM CNC
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4575045
Share on other sites

$2500, you can get a datto sunny or something like that....the a series motors are basically bulletproof going from previous experiences.....buy it for around $1000 and spend the rest on tyres, little performance bits, and paint to make it look pretty....go magenta as a magenta datto sunny would stand out in the crowd :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4575052
Share on other sites

sunny, if you getting a damn dato get something with the 6banger. i dont know why so many like the other datos but the L24-L28s go alot harder than any other dato ive come accross. 280zx's is prob the fastest dato they usually swap in this engine into 240z's. seen as no 1 really likes the look of the 280 there's a good chance of picking up 1 cheap.

note ive had L26 260c 8years now and i swear it wont die :P

Edited by Inline 6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4575155
Share on other sites

Datsun stanza...yummy

A Datsun is a good starting point but most turf the 4 cylinder for a bigger motor and why not when you can legally mid mount a 350 chev in the little nissan.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z310/Ma...3121640x480.jpg

Edited by GROWLY CUSTOM CNC
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4575580
Share on other sites

How about a Mazda familia 4wd turbo. I had a mate sell one for $1500 not long ago.

This may not interest you but it's cheap and gets you on the track now:-

FIAT, SHEET METAL BODY WITH FORD RUNNING GEAR, 250 X FLOW MOTOR, 9 INCH DIFF, 3 SPEED AUTO, SPORTS STEERING WHEEL, NEAR NEW REAR HOOSIER TYRES AND 2 SETS OF FRONTS, BONNET SCOUP + REAR WING/SPOILER NOT PICTURED, VERY COMPETITIVE AND RELIABLE CAR!AND CHEAP TO KEEP RUNNING!, COMPLIES WITH ALL SA RACING RULES AND REGS, GENIUNE REASON FOR SELLING PH 0437675097 OR EMAIL[email protected] CURRENTLY LOCATED IN PORT AUGUSTA SA $2000 O.N.O

http://adelaide.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-for-Sale-cars-5K-FIAT-FORD-DIRT-CIRCUIT-RACE-CAR-W0QQAdIdZ120089880

Edited by GROWLY CUSTOM CNC
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4576871
Share on other sites

Sigma's aint that grunty, seen them go flat and a 31 would definately spank it along with a 260c i dont know how i know that :D

then again the sigma i seen wasnt the best example of 1.

ive seen a couple of cars going cheap that might interest ya but ill keep em secret cause im taking a squiz for maybe a new daily

Edited by Inline 6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4579972
Share on other sites

If you can stretch to $3K I have the perfect car - Jap import U12 Bluebird AWD with CA18DET and ATTESA. Runs in FWD until it detects slip and transfers power to the rear, so it would own all on the dirt. The car is even located in Cummins, so a relatively short trip to pick it up.

I was planning to put it on the road (and given its rarity, I probably still should), but I'm happy to take a loss rather than keep the money tied up in it.

Edited by Iron Chef
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4584003
Share on other sites

If you can stretch to $3K I have the perfect car - Jap import U12 Bluebird AWD with CA18DET and ATTESA. Runs in FWD until it detects slip and transfers power to the rear, so it would own all on the dirt. The car is even located in Cummins, so a relatively short trip to pick it up.

I was planning to put it on the road (and given its rarity, I probably still should), but I'm happy to take a loss rather than keep the money tied up in it.

yeh this thing is nuts, has to be done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268477-race-car/#findComment-4585020
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...