Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Well I got an R33 GTST and im having this problem. The car turns off while im driving. It has happened twice now ahwile apart it happens from stop start going through gears then all of a sudden it turns off. Anyone know what could be wrong with it ? It seems to be idle'ing a little low would that have something to do with it ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/
Share on other sites

check the basics and go see a mechanic

reset the stock ecu, check belts, plugs, fittings in the engine bay

check for any loose plugs or connectors

check the afm plug

check throttle body etc for anything loose

check battery voltage at idle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4575767
Share on other sites

try and replicate the problem while watching ETCl, SENSOR SW CHECK

on the hand controller

do any of the sensor names go black background or do you notice any wierd values

ie; a shagged throttle body or tps would show TPS with a black background when it goes out of range

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4575899
Share on other sites

Sorry to get in on the other guys thread,

i reset the power fc back to stock r33 base map, fuel pump is new and was fine the past month

im still running the 044 fuel pump but with stock injectors and afm,

will try checking the sensors wen it happens,

it happened just before at 10kmph the car behind me almost smashed into me as its like i hit the brakes then it throttle cam back on 2 secs later and was all back to normal

Edited by FOOLBOOST
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4575927
Share on other sites

Had a mate that had this exact problem with his STi, car would just randomly turn off, turns out his ignition barrel was shagged or something and it was rattling loose when driving and turning the car off, new ignition barrel later and a new set of keys and it wa fixed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4576381
Share on other sites

Thanks guys was my AFM the wiring even though soldered must have been touching as the afm keep dropping out

all fixed now :)

Mine did the same thing, in the end was dropping out every couple of k's whilst driving, turned out to be the afm as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268544-turning-off-wtf/#findComment-4583596
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...