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I'm a 19 year old male who has just spent 20k on his R34 GTT to achieve something different, a VQ30DET+T.

Own house, own car..no parents supporting me, I did it all myself, started at 16.

I love how people generalize.

Very nice i have always wanted to do that. Did you weigh the car before and after? Those engines are super light.

I'm a 19 year old male who has just spent 20k on his R34 GTT to achieve something different, a VQ30DET+T.

Own house, own car..no parents supporting me, I did it all myself, started at 16.

I love how people generalize.

why wouldnt you generalise when nearly the majority of the population young people do in this day and age...............

just because you may be the odd one out..... look at the rest of australias 21 Million population

I am 33, own nothing but my R32 GTSt and my cherished DVD collection ... and O'doyle rules!

But what has any of this got to do with a 2.8L Stroker kit? As others have suggested f you have a rwd Nissan then its hard to go pst an RB30 bottom end, they are not as cheap as people make out, but way cheaper then any 2.7, 2.8 or 2.9 or even OSG 3L you will get out of Japan.

If you like your R34 GTT then have some fun with it...if its a stepping stone then jump ship now and low ball some R34 GTR owner as there are plenty for sale and none seem to be going anywhere soon so may be a good buy out there

I dunno about you guys, but that seems reasonably priced to me?

For a crank, pistson's and rods - 10k

How is that even remotely resonable? :)

You've then gotta have it installed, block machined, prepped etc - 15-20k round trip without even breaking a sweat

i personally dont like anything thats a Non GT-R.... in fact i HATE any skyline thats a NON GT-R

but ive come into terms with the fact that not everyone can afford one even if they wanted to.

as well as a public skyline forum...so people are free to ask whatever they want with thier car

Bit of a stuck up statement don't you think?

Haha theres i see i stired upa bit of a debate here onto why i dont just get a GT-R?

I mean i could say the same to GT-R boys and go why not JUST get the R35 GT-R instead of the 34...i mean what is good value for money to some of you people is totaly diferent to others.

I have thought about geting a GT-R 34 before...man i have even thought of just geting a 32 and rebuilding everything...

EVEN THOUGHT ABOUT GETTING AN XR6 TURBO (yucccck)

But hey...i like my car and yes i have grown quite attached to the N/A car i have, But i would probably buy a RB25DET froma 34 and whack it in if i was to do the rebuild i mean when you are fully rebuilding the engine the RB25DE isnt gonna be much different from a RB25DET in terms of everything you change.

Personally for the guy that asked about why not just getting a VL RB30 block, yes i thought about this too...seems great 3.0L botom end for a few hundred bucks and rebuild it...but as i have asked on here before, no one can apparently engineer them into 34's, but then again what cop can see the block of the motor? Its debateable into how risky you want to go in terms of road laws.

Im looking into the 2.8L idea because engineering wise and time wise i dont have to find any engine which i do look for...i dont have to kep trying to get approved rwc's and stuff like that for swapping engines. I even looked at getting an RB26DETT full engine...

I mean its comming down to the sharp edge of the knife and i will have to do something with my engine because this is my passion (unfortunately you could say) and its a costly one with Skylines. I can go the cheap way and have problems with cops and stuff later but have great performance, or i can have paid my dues with high priced parts and have my car legally running (as legal as possible), and feel comfortable driving around knowing im not going to get hassled too much.

The 2.8L idea is just a strong idea on my list i havnt done it yet, i mean i check all my options i dont wanan look back and go hey i coulda done this instead of this.

And any rebuild is going to cost more than a GT-R if your looking for serious power..im looking for 400RwKw and anything more is a bonus. (originally wanted 500RwKw but realised how ridiculous that is for the roads, well even 400 is sorta nuts but thats me.)

For all those GT-R guys out there saying buy a GT-R....sell my N/A car for me for a reasonable price and find me one...All i know is when i am done doing my brakes suspension and engine, your 34 GT-R's will be outdating slowly...wearing down lik everything else and my car will be a fresh engine with all new parts all round, and im sure ill give you a guys a good run where ill be watching you in my rear view mirrors :D

Thanks for all the guys that helped out, and i shoulda mentioned to the guys that said just get a GT-R that that was an obvious thought along time ago....but thanks to those guys anyhow that took the time to reply, im gonan check those power figures in the links.

Bit of a stuck up statement don't you think?

yes

but thats the way i see things anyway...

theres no right or wrong in anyones personal opinion.

you may think a Hyundai excel is crap... but to some people, its good as gold.

yes

but thats the way i see things anyway...

theres no right or wrong in anyones personal opinion.

you may think a Hyundai excel is crap... but to some people, its good as gold.

Another GTR snob, not everyone wants a 4wd.

Reminds me of that other thread about supercharging and stroking an NA R34.

That supercharging and stroking thing done by Cara?

lol thats totally different...im still going for a turbo set up...and rebuild means rebuild...wont be a DE anymore...Shes using the RB25DE though.. :S so see how her efforts go anyhow.

I dunno, insane prices for any Jap parts, especially engine bits seems the norm these days.

I had a look and yeah a RB28 short block is $US14500! http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...-com-eng-e2.htm

Oh and like you said R31Nismoid, the RB28 kit with just the rods, pistons and crank is around $10k including GST. http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/product...products_id=599

Haha speaking of GT-R snobs, I was talking to one the other day, he tried to make me look like an idiot because of things not 100% in my car, then proceeded to try and lie and exaggerate about the cost of parts for his. Given that he runs a dodgy parts business, I wasn't impressed.

Some of us do have more money than others and can love their cars more, buy a GT-R vs GTS-T and whatnot. There are also those folk who prefer the ole rear wheel drive. There's no reason to look down on those of us who only have a Skyline with one ball, or missing two legs. :D

AND what about those poor misguided souls who have a love for ye olde R31's, all people like R31Nismoid can do is stuff a '26 in dere, and hope for the best, all the while wishing that they had some ATTESSA to go :D

There are also those folk who prefer the ole rear wheel drive.

in my opinion if it were a rear wheel drive, a Supra TT is a much prefered car than a GTS-T. or a GT-T Even.....

Alot more power, Potential, over engineered reliablility & more rare than the tom, dick + harry + dog + bird + Fish ....GTS-T

but like you said, everyones got thier own preferences & thoughts

...

AND what about those poor misguided souls who have a love for ye olde R31's, all people like R31Nismoid can do is stuff a '26 in dere, and hope for the best, all the while wishing that they had some ATTESSA to go :D

lol - i know how to drive - i dont wish i had Attessa at all :D

I dont hope for the best at all, barely any wheelspin if im not too aggressive on a launch

I did when i had 370rwkw though i must admit, that was fairly useless on the track and street (running street tyres).

However ~300rwkw with good suspension, tyres and so on... i reckon its a very good combo that i've setup now as a streeter. I look forward to taking it for another run in a few months and see what i can do in full street trim, low 12's would make it one of the faster daily driven cars around.

I say that because most people race on semi's in RWD, and in which case i would be well into the 11's equipped with that kinda rubber

"lol - i know how to drive - i dont wish i had Attessa at all " HAHA spoken like a true R31 driver!

Btw, why why why no RB20DET-R?? Surely its better to have one big ball than two little ones! (+ unlimited street cred that can only be obtained from an RB20 + lag haha)

I like the mighty 2JZ-GTE motor, but other than that the Supra is styled like a particularly ugly boat imo. That and the amount of P platers with them + gay chrome rims + neons and massive wide body kits which look ridiculous given that the rear tyres are cheesecutters are growing exponentially. They are about as rare as R33's these days (at least in this small piece of Australiana where I live).

fair enough, didn't come from R31House by any chance? I find the idea of a RB20 with a turbo that comes on song at >4000rpm romantic, but maybe that's just me...

P.S OP: save yourself 10g and buy a RB30 bottom end, the odds of you being done for it are astronomical.

I like the mighty 2JZ-GTE motor, but other than that the Supra is styled like a particularly ugly boat imo. That and the amount of P platers with them + gay chrome rims + neons and massive wide body kits which look ridiculous given that the rear tyres are cheesecutters are growing exponentially. They are about as rare as R33's these days (at least in this small piece of Australiana where I live).

yes the 2JZ-GTE has much credibility in the motor industry.

i personally think the SUpra looks 100 times better than any GTS-T...

the Biggest problem with them...is that a MAJORITY of them are Non-TURBO.......

and on the outside, you cant tell the difference...

There is a big difference in performance for both in stock form....

so the N/A is a real let down on the cars image.....

Well therefore a Supra TT is more of an equal to the GT-R, but the pov spec models still have the same look externally, which in fact dilutes the hero car's image. I don't know how anyone can find the supra attractive, they look like a hot wheels car, which ironically puts it at odds with the very conservative styling of many other import Toyotas. So really you can't say that they are any more 'rare', except for when you pop the hood.

Not so with a GTS-T/GT-T/GTS-4 vs GT-R, with their easily discernable visual cues, so you can't really say the same thing about Skylines, can you? It's a bit farcical to say that you hate Skylines other than a GT-R, thats like a Holden man saying that he only likes Clubsports but not any other type of Commodore. Also in addition to not everyone wanting AWD, theres a lot including myself who aren't keen on the insane maintenence costs of a GT-R vs one of the lower models.

Well therefore a Supra TT is more of an equal to the GT-R, but the pov spec models still have the same look externally, which in fact dilutes the hero car's image. I don't know how anyone can find the supra attractive, they look like a hot wheels car, which ironically puts it at odds with the very conservative styling of many other import Toyotas. So really you can't say that they are any more 'rare', except for when you pop the hood.

Not so with a GTS-T/GT-T/GTS-4 vs GT-R, with their easily discernable visual cues, so you can't really say the same thing about Skylines, can you? It's a bit farcical to say that you hate Skylines other than a GT-R, thats like a Holden man saying that he only likes Clubsports but not any other type of Commodore. Also in addition to not everyone wanting AWD, theres a lot including myself who aren't keen on the insane maintenence costs of a GT-R vs one of the lower models.

well thats one way of putting it.....

and regarding the RWD... of course... some people prefer rear wheel...and some people prefer Muscle cars too...

but in saying that... your telling me if someone who had a shitty $10,000 180sx or 200sx...or a GTS-T would rather that car than a 60,000$ R34 GT-R if they had a choice??!?!

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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