Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hay guys got a question for u could u safley use liquid nitrogen in an intercooler or any where else to get air intake temperature down ?

or would it crack your cooler beacuse it is too cold or cause problems further on in ur engine eg ur throttle getting frozen open due 2 ice froming on it ?

because it is liquid nitrogen and nitrogen is not combustible would it rob you of more power then it would possibly make ?

and could u easly inject it into ur intercooler ?

could u put it in a water injection kit and would it work ?

also how cold could it make ur intake temperature ?

Thanks guys for your help ! :D

I dont think injecting liquid nitrogen would be all that good....for your motor...being that its a liquid it would probably lock the motor solid once it entered the chambers, it would be like filling your intercooler with water.

you would need a very special container to hold the shit and that is where the problems would start and end i think there are too many variables with the stuff to warrant use in cars + i think it has a reverse effect it eats oxygen or displaces it so not good for an intake charge and it evaporates easily. no easy way of using it i think the fittings you would need to use it would be expensive to use and maintain and safety would be number one.

Hay zebra man umm liquid nitrogen i think is nitrogen gas that is at its freezing point and is in a liquid state but when it is heated up it turns into a gas and when it is sprayed into the intercooler i assume it would turn 2 gas even quicker ... and Air is 78.09% made up of nitrogen.. people with Methanol/Water Injection kits do there intercoolers fill up with water or is it just sprayed on the outside of the intercooler ? sorry zebra not having a go at u or anything

You liquid nitrogen idea has kind of been done already in a much more econmical fashion. CO2 intercooler sprayers do the same thing, except they can be filled up anywhere that services soda pop dispensing machines.

Water/meth injection is completly different.

Good point 3lit 32 but it is a gas in a liquid state so it can only be gas or liquid i think so it should not freeze when i heats up but if the air in the intercooler has high humidity it may form water vapor in and around the intercooler which may block the nozzle.

You are also forgetting that you will need to store the liquid nitrogen. If you can't keep it constantly cold then it will turn back into a gas. And the window is a very fine one. At -196c it is a liquid but if it goes to -210c it becomes a solid. At -195c it's a gas again so I'd say you would start the engine, run it for a few seconds and you'd have a big container full of nitrogen gas.

So would it work if i put liquid nitrogen in a empty water methanol injection kit ?

Well you could stop it from evaporating if your empty water methanol injection kit was really really well insulated, but it'd likely evaporate as soon as you injected it and that'd decrease the fraction of oxygen you have to burn.

The only way you'd use liquid nitrogen is in a heat exchanger with charge air. Forget injecting it into the engine.

Your main issue would be maintaining it at storage temp over time.

So would it work if i put liquid nitrogen in a empty water methanol injection kit ?

No it would freeze the container and the container would break.

Unless you want to make up a special container, with a special freezer, and a special injection kit that could somehow withstand the -196c temps....then your car would be very.....special

You are also forgetting that you will need to store the liquid nitrogen. If you can't keep it constantly cold then it will turn back into a gas. And the window is a very fine one. At -196c it is a liquid but if it goes to -210c it becomes a solid. At -195c it's a gas again so I'd say you would start the engine, run it for a few seconds and you'd have a big container full of nitrogen gas.

then assuming the container is unable to vent the gas fast enough to keep the pressure down it would probably explode.

Good thought but ..... effort > gains

If you were really keen just setup a co2 spray onto the cooler.

I setup a dodgy cage one time on my FMIC and filled it will dry ice for the drags, didnt notice a difference and my intercooler was an iceblock.

Efficient intercoolers shouldnt have that much heatsoak (unless its topmount), the only time you would really notice a difference is on a 40 degree day.

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Good thought but ..... effort > gains

If you were really keen just setup a co2 spray onto the cooler.

I setup a dodgy cage one time on my FMIC and filled it will dry ice for the drags, didnt notice a difference and my intercooler was an iceblock.

Efficient intercoolers shouldnt have that much heatsoak (unless its topmount), the only time you would really notice a difference is on a 40 degree day.

true on the intercooler for heatsoak and efficiency but I have read articles on dry ice intercoolers and they are seeing inlet temps of around -40c when set up properly.

It only last for the first pass and maybe half of the second.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...