Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys..

Wanted to know where is a place to get my Rear Gaurds lipped

Car is a Series 2 R33 GTS-T

I've msg'd a few people here but the soure they gave me is NOR

Tried G Grieves... n they said they're too busy wif Insurance work.. and Autoworks in Welshpool but they haven't gotten back 2 me.

Yeh I mainly after SOR places

Thanks

Sesar

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269083-lipping-rear-gaurds/
Share on other sites

Hi Guys..

Wanted to know where is a place to get my Rear Gaurds lipped

Car is a Series 2 R33 GTS-T

I've msg'd a few people here but the soure they gave me is NOR

Tried G Grieves... n they said they're too busy wif Insurance work.. and Autoworks in Welshpool but they haven't gotten back 2 me.

Yeh I mainly after SOR places

Thanks

Sesar

Dentcraft they come to you

If I remember $150 real nice job

Will Dentcraft pump out the Gaurds a bit?? incase i wanna put wider tyres on it in the future?

No all they do is heat up the guards and tap it softly for about 20 mins

sounds strange I know but works real good.....no sign it has been done externally

My rears were scraping at every bump and after lipping never had a problem again

but as my wife usually says....no pumping

I think they are in the phone book, but I have a card at work so I will have look tomorrow

and let you know

No all they do is heat up the guards and tap it softly for about 20 mins

sounds strange I know but works real good.....no sign it has been done externally

My rears were scraping at every bump and after lipping never had a problem again

but as my wife usually says....no pumping

I think they are in the phone book, but I have a card at work so I will have look tomorrow

and let you know

Ok Thanks.. tha would b helpfull

What Tyres and specs do u have on ur Rears n how low is it???

Mine u can just fit ur pinky winky finger.. in the gaurds..

It's 265/35/18 wif offset of 32 on 9.5" rims

lol with a jack sounds bush styles too.

So does this; adjusting the cars coilovers to sit super low, then find some heavy people to sit in the back

Back on topic, most places don't guarantee that it wont crack the paint, they use a heat gun to heat the paint and panel cracking still can occur. Around $50 a corner is what most places charge using a proper guard roller, not worth wasting your time with steel poles, jacks, or fat people.

Dentcraft they come to you

If I remember $150 real nice job

Stuart from Dentcraft did mine. Got the 2 rear guards rolled.

He will jack your car up.

Take the wheels off.

Bolt on a roller to your hub.

Use like a really fkn hot hair-dryer to heat the guards/paint.

Roll them, tap them with a soft hammer/mallet till they're lipped.

If your paint is original and in good condition, you shouldn't have a problem with the paint cracking.

Paint is Original and is in Good condition :-)

Do u guys know where i can buy some C Spanners or burrow some.. I need to raise the front end cuz u really can't really roll

the front end or will they do them as well.. None of my friends have C Spanners for my Coilovers..

-SeS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...