Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those contemplating the idea it can be as simple as unbolting the gtst front and bolting on the gtr parts.

After speaking to a few guys i thought i would be in for more of a chore than it turned out to be. From what I can see the secret lies in model parity.

My gtst is a series 1 and so was the donor gtr. All I need to complete the task now is a gtr front bar.

Parts required.

Bonnet

Bonnet hinges

Guards

Guard risers

reo

front bar

headlights. (optional)

Bonnet latch and upright.

Sideskirts are a squeeze but can be made fit without too much drama.

For all intnets and purposes the only difference between GTST and GTR headlights (providing they are both series 1) is a spacer on the mounting bolts protruding from the back of the headlight.

Order of assembly.

Fit the guard risers first. Dont tighten them down. Fit the guards. (again just nip them for adjustment later)

Fit the new upright and bonnet latch assembly. The difference is about 25 mil in height to accomodate the extra lift created by the guard risers

Fit the bonnet.

Adjust all panels so they mate together. (guards, bonnet)

Tighten up all panel bolts.

Reattatch sideskirts.

fit front reo.

Fit headlights.

Fit front bar.

Doneski!

Looks a million bucks too. I was a bit worried that the phat fron may look out of place but my rear guards have been Lipped and pulled about 15 mil so it actually looks quite neat.

This conversion was from a series 1 to a series 1. I Also helped a mate fit series 3 gtr headlights to his series 1 gtst and it was a butcher shop to get them to fit.

If you match series to series It will take away a lot of the pain.

Will post some pics tomoz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269201-33-gtst-to-gtr-front-conversion/
Share on other sites

Sounds interesting. So you're going for looks only, right? Not do the full performance conversion as well? Personally, and this is only my person views; a GTS-T is another type of beast in its' own right. Why not make it unique in its own way and not be a GTR when you can simply buy a GTR for an extra $15K or something?

Sounds interesting. So you're going for looks only, right? Not do the full performance conversion as well? Personally, and this is only my person views; a GTS-T is another type of beast in its' own right. Why not make it unique in its own way and not be a GTR when you can simply buy a GTR for an extra $15K or something?

Fark me you are a ricer monkey. This is all about track work baby. weight saving and more rubber under the front is where its at.

I also pulled all the extra chasis braces from the gtr donor car and am fitting them to the gtst as well.:)

  • 1 month later...
you say u need new bonnet laches and a new bonnet?

i have a after market carbon fibre bonnet that fits a gtst are u saying ide need to scrap that and buy a gtr bonnet to fit them gtr front guards?

From my experience, Yes.

  • 6 months later...
Fark me you are a ricer monkey. This is all about track work baby. weight saving and more rubber under the front is where its at.

I also pulled all the extra chasis braces from the gtr donor car and am fitting them to the gtst as well. :)

How much weight do you save?

do you know (ive been told by wreckers) if there is a difference with S1 and S2 reo and to be honest i thought it would of been S1 and S3 :)

cheers

From what I've been told S1 and S2 GTSt's def have different reo's and then they're different again from GTR's in that a S1 GTR reo isn't the same as a S1 GTSt reo, but I'm only going on what I've been told.

what did you use for the guard risers and any pics of them fitted to the guards

You must use the gtr guard risers, they bolt straight on.

I know sweet fanny adams as to what fits and doesnt fit on a series 2. My conversion was as simple as it gets. series one gtr to series one gtst.

You should push your lights forward a bit if you have not done so already...if you want to do it right, you have to get a new GTR bonnet and a GTR spec front bar...moreover, your rear guards are not flared out enough - I suggest you push it out more.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...