Jump to content
SAU Community

Problems With Series 1 Stagea

stoks1

By stoks1,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

stoks1 Apprentice

stoks1

Posted
Posted

G'day I'm from Adelaide and I've got a series 1 stagea which I recently purchased.

Unfortunately I didn't notice when checking it out the idle is somewhat erratic (revs high (1500 or so, then drops to 500 or so, then usually settles). It's only really noticeable just after starting it up and during some low speed turns. Not really a big problem but definitely something I would like to fix.

Also occasionally the engine has cut out a few times during sharp low speed turns, which I'm guessing has some relation to the idle as maybe increased load on the engine and no extra revs could cause it. This is obviously quite frustrating.

Anyone else encountered these problems and could offer suggestions for fixing?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269756-problems-with-series-1-stagea/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

It could be a lot of things but cleaning out your AAC valve would be a prime suspect. There is a great tutorial here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

the links to the photos do not work but the photos have been put back in if you scroll down a bit.

Well worth doing and could solve your problem.

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

blocked of blow off's tend to affect the cars low down rpm and can cause stalling ect..

I'd be doing the following:

Clean ACC valves

Checking plug gap and condish.

Make sure blow off isnt plated off

any idea when fuel filter was last done?

stoks1 Apprentice

stoks1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers for the tips, I'll have a go at a few things and post up any results. Don't hold your breath though!

No idea when the fuel filter was last done

Also the last service included works for fixing a leak in the vac rear of the inlet manifold. Could this be a possible cause of the problem? eg maybe its leaking again?

I really hope I can get this sorted, as I really like the stagea. Currently pretty disappointed :whistling:

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Which part of Adelaide are you located?

There are a few potential causes - all pretty simple (some mentioned already), so it might pay to hook up with another owner who can offer advice.

I have access to factory diagnostic tools if you suspect a dud sensor.

It will also pay to check the type of plugs installed - some compliance parts are 'average' to say the least...

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

When Igot mine three years ago it did all that. But it went away. There was some suggestion about stale fuel being in the tank. The other suggestion was to reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery negative and pump the brake a few times, then reconnect.

stoks1 Apprentice

stoks1

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Cheers for the further help.

On the whole it still drives pretty well, certainly is a pleasure. I just really want to get it as close to perfect as possible.

Oh and I'm from the noth western suburbs and I'd be keen to see if there's any sensors showing problems. You anywhere near me bensdr30?

Edited by stoks1
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
I make regular surfing trips down south, so that shouldn't be a problem.

I'd PM ya but I don't have enough posts yet haha (need 10 minimum before you can)

Do a couple more posts and let me know via PM when you're heading past Old Noarlunga next - we'll plug the laptop in & see if there's anything obvious going on.

(and eyeball the engine bay - you never know what might show up)

  • 4 weeks later...
stoks1 Apprentice

stoks1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just thought I'd resurrect this and say I got round to getting a new O2 sensor fitted with limited results. It definitely runs better but still feels very sluggish as if it will stall during low speed maneuvers, so it was worth doing but it didn't fix it.

I guess I'll try AAC valve and plugs next.

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Well that's a start...

One thing we didn't test when we had NDS hooked up was the AAC function. :bunny:

I was playing around on our car on the weekend & remembered that you can set the AAC and check for the appropriate RPM change (I think it ran at about 600rpm with the AAC set to zero, and about 1600rpm with it set to 100).

If you're heading on another surfing trip, feel free to drop in & we can give it a test.

:rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...
wolven Contributor

wolven

Posted
Posted

Hey guys im having pretty much the same issue as Stoks with almost identical car and the idling was getting pretty bad fluctuating from about 1000rpm to stalling while sitting in drive in traffic (even worse while in park) so i went and got the car serviced and they cleaned the AAC valve, did a throttle body service and reset the idling. was fine for about 2 days but now its getting worse change gears when the car is warm and it flutters between 1000rpm and almost cuts out. easiest way to deal with it i've found is to drive with the A/C on to lift the revs but that obviously isnt a good idea for fuel so... i need help! Spoke to the mechanic that worked on my car and he said the engine was A1 but thinks i might have a faulty AAC so i was wondering if anyone knew if if was common for the AAC to fail (understandable with a 12yr old car) and if so can you find replacements?

any help would be appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...