Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

parts for r33 gtst s1 and s2

boot lid = $50

left hand door complete $150

taillights = $150 pair

centre garnish for series 2 = $40

complete sunroof = $400 obo

rear corner windows = $25 each

rear window = $40

side skirts pair stock r33 gtst = $150

mirrors = $40 each

front hub assemlbeys complete 5 stud =$80 pair

s1 rear seat compolete x3 = $30 each set

s1 passenger seat x 3 = $30 each

s1 cross member = $30

s1 rear calipers pair = $120

s1 rear discs = $50

s1/s2 rear axles pair $50

r33 gtst front cut bare shell only $300

r33 gtst long rear end shell only $300

have alot more bits cant think of but just ask can help u out

r32 bits

drivers side door bare = $50

stock gtst rear bootlid spoiler = $30

front hub assemlbeys 5 stud = $70 pair

steering rack = $70

parts are located in reservior in melbs northern suburbs please call 0402090079 if need more info

Edited by SXC_R33
  • 2 weeks later...

GUYS ALL THIS STUFF AND ALOT MORE AVALIABLE

PRICE DROP ON

SIDE SKIRTS (1 HAS A CRACK IN IT STILL GOOD) $100 pair

left hand door complete $100

taillights = $100 pair

complete sunroof = $300 obo

r32 bits

drivers side door bare = $30

stock gtst rear bootlid spoiler = $20

front hub assemlbeys 5 stud = $50 pair

steering rack = $50

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...