Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all... finaly got off my ass and did somthing bout my custom turbo that vents to atmosphere! lol... the gaskets were shagged and sounded like a tractor! many will agree!

today we got all the cooler, intake and other pipes out the way. took out the 1st turbos manifold bolts, and some of the 2nd, the front pipe, and unbolted the turbo to manifold bolts... the coolant and oil lines (2 of each..)of the 1st turbo... how ever the turbo still wouldnt come off the manifold... there was sum heat sheild underneath the turbo that gave us a little bit more movement but not all thats left in the way is the o2 sensor.

it ended up being a missing bolt on the front dump, loose rear dump bolts, and a few other loose ones aswell! is there any other hints any wants to share :) its actualy not that hard once you start going tho i spose!

thanx guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270067-removing-turbos-from-a-26/
Share on other sites

my only tip, dont snap a turbo stud!

its one big headf**k to get it drilled out, you gotta make nuff room there

for captain thread to get his drill in!

never want to go there again lol

wasnt a fun way to spend my 21st thats for sure :)

good luck!

if ya need a hand let me know

im still stuffed after the turbo install, seems Ive pinched the sciatic nerve so the past few weeks I havent been able to sit down for longer than half-hour.

sore and stiff :D

good luck & have fun !

cheffs at work today but once i get hone think ill do some more.... rather tired after getting home at 4.30am dono how im on here this early truth be known. At the girlfriends place sitting in her bed on SAU on her laptop and no whining :D think shes keeper :D

Ok so I managed to get both turbos out thisarvo. What a Cun& of a job.

Pretty sure ive found whats making cheffs car sound like a tractor. No bolts holding the rear turbo's dump onto the turbo would have alot to do with it id say :blink: The gasket in the join or what resembles as "gasket"is also well rooted. Apart from that the other gaskets look fine. Will admit most things were fairly loose. The oil line on the rear turbo (not the metal one) was so loose and looks like its been leaking :P. The rear turbo on removal of the induction pipe prob had 5ml of oil sitting in it just infront of the fins. Is this an issue? Their is next to no shaft play in either turbos.

Cant wait to get back in their and put it all back together :S NOT! haha im at work tomorrow so adam can do it :blush:

Ok so I managed to get both turbos out thisarvo. What a Cun& of a job.

Pretty sure ive found whats making cheffs car sound like a tractor. No bolts holding the rear turbo's dump onto the turbo would have alot to do with it id say :( The gasket in the join or what resembles as "gasket"is also well rooted. Apart from that the other gaskets look fine. Will admit most things were fairly loose. The oil line on the rear turbo (not the metal one) was so loose and looks like its been leaking :happy: . The rear turbo on removal of the induction pipe prob had 5ml of oil sitting in it just infront of the fins. Is this an issue? Their is next to no shaft play in either turbos.

Cant wait to get back in their and put it all back together :S NOT! haha im at work tomorrow so adam can do it :(

I would say that there is certainly a chance that the rear turbo needs a new compressor seal - Adam might be well advised to have them both rebuilt while they're off...

I would say that there is certainly a chance that the rear turbo needs a new compressor seal - Adam might be well advised to have them both rebuilt while they're off...

ben i havnt got much experience in this kinda stuff. how expensive is this kinda job? im not going to to to crazy on it with mods... all shes guna get is the safc2 EBC 11psi im thinking... tuned and an exhaust.... its not going to be worked hard. having said that what could happen if the seal fully shags it self. and can i see how bad it is by looking or doing somthing :S....

If you're serious about not modifying the car much, then a rebuild of what you've got would be the cheapest 'new' option.

Speak to Bill @ ATS on Marion Road for a quote

Edited by BensDR30

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...