Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my clutch is f.u.c.k.e.d

it shat itself today. have to rev to like 6k before it starts biting

i want to go to nissan tomolo to buy the nissan patrol clutch which was mentioned in that other thread. Part no: R173N

Nissan Patrol clutch

i jus want to confirm if this is the right clutch and that it will fit my car (94 R33 GTST)

and jus to clarify, which year patrol model is the clutch from just in case the jockeys at nissan ask.

also anyone know where i can get it installed cheaply? or a place where i can use a hoist? (not too far from springy area as i dun think my clutch can last the distance)

also what gear box oil should i buy to refill?

god dammit clutches are freakin annoying when they fu(k up. :rofl:

please any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/
Share on other sites

LOL nissan patrol clutch is exactly the same.If you want a clutch ring paul at precision brake and clutch in bendigo he's built clutches for most top street and strip cars in australia and neighbouring countries.for ex..526rwkw supra single plate. he can be reached on 54436744 or 0427436744

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/#findComment-569256
Share on other sites

Oh yeah its not cheaper unless you are buying genuine nissan parts.This bloke is well worth it,5 mins out ya time hand made button paddle clutch.or full face.dont forget pressure plate has alot to do with it aswell.A crappy clamp load pressure plate is gonna suck on a turbo line.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/#findComment-569288
Share on other sites

good work.. hopefully it goes well. I reckon there are a stack of places that can do it on the cheap - a clutch install is a clutch install.

prolly a good idea to get the flywheel machined as well when you get it all done, as that will improve the hookup of the new clutch.

damn Nissan - they build the gearboxes to withstand 300rwkw, and yet they only build the clutch to only 160rwkw or so :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/#findComment-569463
Share on other sites

Originally posted by predator666 damn Nissan - they build the gearboxes to withstand 300rwkw, and yet they only build the clutch to only 160rwkw or so :( [/b]

i thought you knew better mr gordon!

It's much preferreable to have one's clutch let go than to strip the gearbox.

hence why you sohuld have you clutch slightly less than what your box can handle so the clutch will go first.

Much cheaper option. :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/#findComment-569579
Share on other sites

ok

jus bought the clutch from repco, was $236.95

PBR clutch kit

dun say anything about being a heavy duty daiken

but i can tell yah its weighs a bit

now i gotta find a muzza to put it on for me

the muzza at SLR performance centre in springy said 250 machine the flywheel and gearbox oil

other muzza said he will have to see but about 100 something depending on condition of the clutch

which muzza should i pick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/#findComment-569846
Share on other sites

Do you have to drop the k frame to the end of the threads to get to top bell housing bolts??.if so thats damn cheap coz its a prick of a job.I would go with oil and machine for $250.then its gonna feel brand new.And if ya can pay the difference get that redline shockproof oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/#findComment-569946
Share on other sites

Originally posted by predator666

yes, but ~160rwkw and around 300rwkw are largely different figures!

yes, but also, little japanese man dont like pushing a decent heavy/grippy clutch all day long either :shake: :shake:

Also im betting most of you still have the same clutch from factory... so they are getting a little older now too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/#findComment-569980
Share on other sites

When you get old clutch out check for wear on the plate.If its severley worn on pressure plate side its driver wear slipping and riding it.If its severley worn on flywheel side its engine power wear.

My twin plate was definitely the best mod ive done so far never thought a clutch would make my car feel so positive in launch and hard changing.To anyone else upgrading your clutch get the best you can afford as it makes such a good difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27011-clutch-is-fubared/#findComment-570002
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...