Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I had fibreglass laying around and wanted to learn how to use it, i want to make fenders and rear guards and a new front bar, but i had never used it before so i gave this a go instead.

Basically removed the front bar, traced around it and added an inch copying the shape of the r34 jgtc cars. I then cut this shape out of thin board and layered fibreglass over the top with a large overlap.

Then this morning i flipped it and did the same on the other side, to make a wood sandwich. Jigsawed the shape back out to get rid of the excess and viola. I dabbed the resin on with a brush, then used a roller to smooth it out and I must say im pretty happy with the result, bit of a sand and its smooth enough to paint.

I figure I installed it on a horizontal plane so it cant offer significantly more drag at low speed, hopefully it does something at high speed. Will have to give it a test at OP.

post-26632-1242458445_thumb.jpg

I have never used fibreglass before, but it was not that messy and I will definitely use it more in the future. I have a question though, what am i supposed to do with the front guards? currently the front bar has no liners in it, i have trayed off the underside but i am unsure of what to do around the wheel. I understand if you guys think this is all pointless aero, but i'm basically having fun spending time doing it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270300-diy-fibreglass-splitter/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

ok new pic, its painted and tested as i had an off at oran park lol. im quite happy it definitely works, i will however remake it as i want it a bit further out, and i will incorporate the undertray so its all smooth

post-26632-1245587005_thumb.jpgpost-26632-1245587023_thumb.jpg

and the undertray

post-26632-1245587128_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got a spare standard box sitting in the garage  I know it will come one day though, but it's driven pretty tamely on the four times a year it gets out... 
    • Big question… have you decided on a gearbox? Because it’s going to come… and a gearset ain’t going to do the job.    save your pennies 🤪
    • it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
×
×
  • Create New...