Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheelspin in second.

jtech

By jtech,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

«Cyph3r» Experienced

«Cyph3r»

Posted
Posted

AS V-Spec said tyres and suspension setup have the biggest effect on this. Power delivery also has a part in this but not as much as the other two factors. My toyota has less power than my skyline (226rwkw) but when i had my slightly worn dodgy pirellis on it and very stiff suspension it would snap sideways and wheel spin in 3rd on dry bitumen as soon as it came on boost at about half throttle (~3000rpm). My skyline with drag suspension rather than drift setup has a big turbo (gt3037s) and very soft falken tyres but doesn't go sideways and wheelspin when it hits boost as easily as my toyota. You can put very stiff suspension in a silvia/180 and setup camber and caster for drifting and get it to wheelspin easily in 2nd with relatively stock engine.

If you are just wanting to know how much power your car has as vspec said go to a dyno shootout or something (pretty cheap) or if you want to know how to get your car to do this just speak to a tuning shop and they should be able to advise what mods are needed.

Jamie

rbs13 Community Regular

rbs13

Posted
Posted

i have a rb20det in a siliva.. heaps of camber on the rear.. low n hard.. and if i go from first two second i get no traction what so ever in second and it wil chirp and sometimes with .8bar boost it will kick a bit sideways changing to third... with 1bar it will kick out and spin a lil more but thats with 4.3 diff gears i think.. well at 110 in 5th its about 3800!!!

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

lol...

i have over 200rwkw.

no loss of traction in 1st or second, if i launch smoothly and then mash it.

If i launch hard then wheelspin all the way till the top of 2nd.

I only have 225's so it does well to keep traction most of the time

but it all has to do with how you work ya clutch

Cool Hand Luke Community Regular

Cool Hand Luke

Posted
Posted

With my SR180 and 195's i could wheelspin at 110km/h for as far as i wanted in the dry (i got a fine on the highway within 20mins of driving with those tyres :( ). Tyres make a phonomenal difference i had 2 difference sets of 235's, once were pathetic and would spin for a fair bit when i shifted into 3rd, while the others would just twitch and hook up well.

To answer your original question i would say 220rwkw with a stockish suspension/tyres setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      So i brought a boat...

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Ouch
    • 84eighty
      So i brought a boat...

      By 84eighty · Posted

      I removed the head expecting to find broken and bent valves, but instead found number 1 at TDC and cylinder 2 at the top of its cylinder stroke as well, thought that was weird and proceeded to push cylinder 2 back down until it either bottomed out on its other piston half or the conrod either way we found the issue kind of,  now to remove the engine and see how the block looks, hopefully its just the top off a piston.  
    • robbo_rb180
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • GTSBoy
      Spotted on the street....

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
×
×
  • Create New...