Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, this is just an Expression of Interest for stripping a R34. 

Things NOT included: Engine, and Manual Gearbox etc (Shehan had dibs on it) :( and ofcoarse the system.

Everything else is up for grabs guys. 

As i said its just an expression of interest to see if it will be worthwhile for me to start ripping the car apart or not. 

Goodies?

Carbon OEM Hood, has some damage on it though. 

Kakimoto Stainless Steal Catback. 

Splitfire Coilpacks 

Xenon Headlights ( Will sell pair unless you can organise for a person to buy a left if your after a right vice versa )

Other than all this, everything else in the car is stock

1999 Model Nissan Skyline 25GT Manual 2 Door. 

White

Shell not for sale. 

Thanks guys. 

And please forgive me if i reply late to PM's or Posts (max delay 12 Hours)

Planning to Strip next month. 

Note: No Bidding on items

Some of these parts will also be on eBay next month and will update the thread once i start to rip it apart and catalogue all the parts available.

MRXTCZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270408-eoi-stripping-r34-25gt/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just incase people are confused, everything else in the car is up for grabs aswell.

Reason?

I got into an accident, and need to strip the car to make some money back to pay off the loan :(

So, interior panels eg. door panels, seats, floor mats, a/c surround, a/c unit, engine bits and peices just not the whole engine itself.

MRXTCZ

VikZ

Thanks for holding the manual kit for me, but it's up for grabs because I can't take it anymore.

I've no money left to work on the car!

Cheers!

p.s. however i am interested in the front passenger side panel if it's for sale. thanks.

how much for coilpacks? will buy if reasoonable price?

how much for those interior trims around the headunit that always get scratched (if yours arent scratched)

EJD001

Wouldnt have a clue mate, do a search and find out.

OKBANANA

Pm recieved and noted name down for the gear surround, a/c vents and surround and AC unit.

ash_29

If OKBANANA falls through the item is yours, but im pretty sure he wont

imnotwearingpants

Condensor is still available and will let you know a price closer to dismantle date

XKLABA

Number plate lights still available, closer to dismantle date.

SHANE666

No worries dude :P

Manual Conversion kit still for sale!

Keeffy

As Daniel said, cars NA

Natho33

Coilpacks will be let go for $325, less than a year old Splitfires.

Resh

Sorry dude didnt come with the pop up LCD

Hypnotik

I'll have to get back to you on that one.

It is the same as the GTT, just wanna see if they wanna sell drivers and passenger as a pair.

But will let you know asap.

Nushtek

$325

Galla_4

Speedo cluster, i will let you know the price asap

I'd probably PM you :)

For everyone else who has PM'd me, i have replied so check your inboxes.

I've got a list of what people want at home as i am at work right now, and will update that list asap.

I wanna make this as less painful as i can, so i just wanna catalogue the parts, and as soon as you got the money ready i will rip it out and hand it to you :)

MRXTCZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...