Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Paragon, the front calipers are yours.

And you said you might be interested in the rotors aswell, so im just gonna put them down for you aswell.

Putraged, the bare LHS door is yours.

OKBANANA, heres the problem, if i was to sell the manual conversion. Then im pretty sure the clutch pedal will be needed and pedal box lols.

But we'll see what happens.

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, this is just an Expression of Interest for stripping a R34. 

Things NOT included: Engine, and Manual Gearbox etc (Shehan had dibs on it) :P and ofcoarse the system.

Everything else is up for grabs guys. 

As i said its just an expression of interest to see if it will be worthwhile for me to start ripping the car apart or not. 

Goodies?

Carbon OEM Hood, has some damage on it though. 

Kakimoto Stainless Steal Catback. 

Splitfire Coilpacks 

Xenon Headlights ( Will sell pair unless you can organise for a person to buy a left if your after a right vice versa )

Other than all this, everything else in the car is stock

1999 Model Nissan Skyline 25GT Manual 2 Door. 

White

Shell not for sale. 

Thanks guys. 

And please forgive me if i reply late to PM's or Posts (max delay 12 Hours)

Planning to Strip next month. 

Note: No Bidding on items

Some of these parts will also be on eBay next month and will update the thread once i start to rip it apart and catalogue all the parts available.

MRXTCZ

interested in bonet pm price and mabee exust

how much for the bonnet shipped to melbourne???

and does it have lock pins

cheers

julz

still waiting on an answer for this question from last week chief

what kind of damage r we talking about here ????

cheers

julz

Edited by GUN_METAL_GTR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...