Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guy let me introtuce myself my name is ross aka as cuttz on hear im turnning 25 in june this year. im from bendigo victoria. and sick of using my r33 gtst on the street as a drift car as the cops dont like it that much .

anyways ive decided to build a track car of some kind that i can punish with out giving a shit ya know, thinking in the lines of an r31 s3.

just after some hints and tip on how best to do this, im a welder by trade so pretty handy with most things but dont be scared to let me know anything.

as i start at first i just want to get the car and body ready to drift asap power and paint can come soon enough as ive got good mates in the scene. in other words keen to get out on the track

so if any has tips on suspention upgrades and roll cage specs ride hights and some tips on how to cut and remove weight and stiffen the whole thing up.

anything need for CAMS approval

also how to go about setting up a hydrolic handbrake

diff setups and uprades.(also hurd i can upgrade to an r33 cradle is this true and how do i do this)

five stud conversion

brake upgrades and setup

and steering and extra lock upgrades

and anything else u guys want to add go for it.

any help would be greatly apreciated. thanks heap...... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270446-building-a-r31-drift-car/
Share on other sites

hey guys me again just wonding about engine coversions i should use. i like the power i have in my r33 gtst (rb25det 185rwkw) thinking about getting one for the r31 but dont know up for any opinions. plus what gearbox is best for drift use, is a rb30 manual any goos with a strait cut uprade or shoul i source a rb25det box and strait cut that. and do or should use any bushes for gearbox or should i solid mount it.

any helps would be great thanks. :P

hey all just arived in qld two non complayable r33 gt25t all parts avil please kall 0430540512 will post and send au wide if payed for cheers

hey already have one of them but maybe a 32 wasnt realy keen on spending to much on the shell but let me know might change my mind on maybe or even a no complyable 180sx. let me know

chuck a 25det in with the 25det box, i wouldn't bother with straight cut gears, the 33 box is pretty strong as is. (mine handles 400rwhp without any issues)

5 stud conversion, the front hubs can be re-drilled to 5 stud, or you can get early Z31 hubs. the rear can't be re-drilled, so its either try find some early Z31 hubs again, or get some made up (probably easier to get a full set made up)

brakes wise, again i'd chuck the 33 gts-t brakes on it, you will need HR31 (import) front struts, and then the calipers/rotors are a direct fit, rear is a direct fit too. if its converted to 5 stud, everything will bolt straight up, if its still 4 stud, you just need to get blank rotors, or re-drill them to 4 stud)

diff setup, you can get a few different LSD's for them, i've got a tomei technical trax 2 way for my 31, they make them for the aussie spec as well (a mate in WA has one for sale, in the housing)

hey mitchy thanks for the advice on the studs. just question on the hr31 stuts is it easier if i just put in coilovers in the front instead of trying to track down struts and prices on the stuts if ya have any. also what did ya 2way cost ya and are u using the live axle or is it tru that u can use the rear cradle off an r33. and whats involed on installing the z31 hubs is there much mods needed to fit em. thanks heaps for the info.

and also how would i go about getting the hubs made up. cheers

Edited by cuttz

You might need to specify aus spec or import as the rear ends are completely different.

Custom axles aren't cheap, and z31 stuff is getting increasingly hard to come by. Yes its true that you can 'use' a 33 rear subframe, but its certainly not worth the significant expense imo.

Jump on the r31 forum there are plenty of guys drifting aus spec 31s there with detailed build threads you can get all your info from. Judging by the list of mods your looking at you may find an s13 or race only s14/r32 will be cheaper and have more potential given the aftermarket support.

btw a dog box on its own is worth more than everything else in your list put together including the car.

Edited by DCIEVE
You might need to specify aus spec or import as the rear ends are completely different.

Custom axles aren't cheap, and z31 stuff is getting increasingly hard to come by. Yes its true that you can 'use' a 33 rear subframe, but its certainly not worth the significant expense imo.

Jump on the r31 forum there are plenty of guys drifting aus spec 31s there with detailed build threads you can get all your info from. Judging by the list of mods your looking at you may find an s13 or race only s14/r32 will be cheaper and have more potential given the aftermarket support.

btw a dog box on its own is worth more than everything else in your list put together including the car.

hey mate thanks for the info. do u know of any cheep race only cars or where is it best to look for em. thanks :P

  • 2 months later...

Seriously dont bother with a "cheap R31"... I went down that road about 18months ago with an import coupe... by the time I started collecting all the good parts I realised that getting a R32, S13 or R33 for the track was going to work out much cheaper in the long run... To give you an idea... to use the R33 rear end you are looking at about 4k to get it installed and alligned correctly.... I sold it and got an R33 instead.

  • 2 weeks later...

u dont need a 33 rear end and u dont need to spend a heap of money

my aus spec 31 set up was, spool diff, full s13 coilovers, RB30E+T, a good 5 puk clutch afew sway bars, lightly striped and a good tune 180rwkw with something crazy like 700nm

all up the set up cost well under 8k on the road and destroyed s13s, 32s in the same price range

Edited by dreadr31

As said before, you don't need much to drift a 31.

I've drifted mine and all it's got is new shocks, springs, bushes, slotted rotors and rebuilt calipers. Hell, it's got an automatic gearbox and still slides.

But really you'd want an S13 suspension conversion, RB30E+T or an RB25DET, 5 pak button clutch, and a LSD/minispool/welded diff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...