Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive just brought a R33 Gts-T today and the parklights have been made into indicators and is causing the car to think there is a blown globe due to there not being enough current draw on the system because of the size of the wedge type parklight globes. is there anyway of fixing this problem without having to re-wire the indicators and parklights back to the way they were? all help is greatly appreciated.

thanks =]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270491-indicators-flashing-too-fast/
Share on other sites

+ 1 for resistor.... im going to alltronics in perth to get some for mine.. ill take a 5w globe that i want to use and a 21w standard globe and get them to mesure the resistance for me ... lol im not a nerd. eheh

The easiest way you can fix this is get a internally resisted flasher unit, they are about $15-20 at coventrys.

Take your old one in and they will match it up.

You can also use this to fix the fast flashing when putting LED's into your car, and its a lot cleaner than putting a resister in your harness.

hey guys thanks for all the feedback! turns out it was easy as just changing the front globes to a higher wattage :( (was only running 5w-12v globes -.-") put in some 12v-16w ones and it slowed them right down >_< its a pain in the ass getting the front right hand parker (now indicator) plug out....had to remove the washer bottle, over flow bottle and move the relay box just to fit my hand in! and i ended up doing it in the dark holding a torch with my mouth :P but yeah thanks again! anyone know where to find 16-18w amber wedge globes that will still fit the parker socket? (currently using white as i was told it legal) but i just want to be safe.

Edited by XxNinjaxX

I went in to repco and found the 18watt t10 wedge globes ther bout 3.99 for 2 but their clear.. im just gona go to bunnings when i go back to work and grab some led glass spray.. spray the globes orange and ill go from there.. about 6.99 for the can .. hehe 12buks might be worth it..

oh cool. i wasnt aware that there was a glass spray, thats actually pretty good. how long will the spray last untill it starts to flake off roughly? as R33 owners would know its a pain in the ass to get to the r/h/f parklight =/ as ive previously said. but yea i'll definatly consider that, its cheaper an less hassle than getting a yellow licky for clear front indicators lol

Yea dont know.. what is easyer is take out the head light its self... easy as 1 TAKE OFF GRILL 2 UNSCREW TOP BOLT... 3 UNSCREW TWO NUTS ON THE BACK OF THE HEAD LIGHT. 3 TAKE OUT..

i went to altronics and they didnt know what i was on about.. when i explaned to them about using an risistor..

so now i just want the best and fullproof way on geting my indicators to stop flashing fast AS WELL ......... ahhhhh

so it seams that the relay would be the best bet.. come on guys tell us what you have used.. thanx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
    • Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp    
×
×
  • Create New...