Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i need some advice on whats happening to my car. only just bought my r33 maybe just over 2 months now and i've never really fanged it. i did it once and for some reason when i'm boosting it up (almost flooring it), after about 4,500revs there is a surge of power and boosts up more but then it starts to choke/stutter?

today i got my exhaust put in and decided to give it a good fang and the same thing happened. i would boost it up hard and all of a sudden after about 4,500revs there is a kick in the power and it boosts up more but then starts to stutter. as far as i can remember it happened in all gears from 1st to 3rd. i'll test it out tomorow again.

now i just want to know if this sounds like the ordinary stuffed coilpacks problem? or does it sound like something else? fuel pump?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270662-r33-boost-problem/
Share on other sites

tape your coil packs up and have a go. use good electrical tape. only really need to do it around where they screw into the car. theres a thread about misfiring above 4500rpms,, i used to hav that problem and now it redlines with no problems

tape your coil packs up and have a go. use good electrical tape. only really need to do it around where they screw into the car. theres a thread about misfiring above 4500rpms,, i used to hav that problem and now it redlines with no problems

thanks for info will try taping the coils not sure how that would fix it but worth a try if it has fixed yours.

vvt switch point, change your plugs first or regap. if it continues to missfire at high rpm then buy some second hand coil packs and switch them in/out until it stops happening (or just buy some splitfires). tape wont work (poor insulator of heat)... possibly better than nothing

the reason it boost harder after 4500 is coz its a standard dual stage boost solenoid they all boost harder after 4500, the stuttering and coffing is coil pack related. also search for a thread that over rides the second boost kick for full boost from go to wo.

^^shit didn't ahve a clue about that. i'm coming from owning 2 32s so have no idea. thanks heaps

someone show me this thread about getting full boost!

Edited by jakez88

As the previous poster mentioned, your car has a two-stage boost controller as a stock item. It regulates that boost will go up to 5psi at around 3000rpm, and then once you reach around 4500rpm upwards, the boost climbs to 7-8psi.

For reference's sake, I've seen mine get to about 7.5-8psi when I get close to redlining in 3rd gear coming onto the highway.

If you were to install a manual boost controller (like a turbosmart, or gfb as examples) this takes the place of the stock boost controller and sets a maximum boost as set by you when adjusting the new controller. Up to around 10psi is considered safe with stock internals and turbo.

Unfortunately I can't help with the misfire problem, but as others have stated have a look on these forums, I have seen a stickied thread relating to it.

Get a turbotech manual boost tee, there on ebay about 40$, They hold boost pretty good. Mine use to hold up to 10-12psi on stock turbo with full exhaust and front mount. Get that and when you connect it, dissconnect your stock boost solenoid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...