Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

unfortunately my car has been written off and my insurance is stuffing me around so i might get nothing

i hit someone up the ass at a low speed and set the airbag off and as she had a towbar it show is the damage

do u think it is repairable from these pics

the cooler and radiator are f**ked

post-51056-1242908687_thumb.jpg

Who are you insured with ? As far as i know there is always the option of purchasing the car back when it is written off

And yes i think that isnt a very difficult repair for a decent panel beater. At least with front enders the chassis rarely bends leaving you crabbing up the street.

What needs to be replaced, Front bar,Bonnet ,headlight, radiator and rad support etc

they fix worse than this often

Edited by GTR-32U

im with just car

i paid for full comp ($1306) and there saying i have 3rd party

it is a load of shit so im looking at the worst case senario i dont want to sell it off in parts and ill get sweet FA for it and i love her to bits so im loking at repairing it

What does it say on the Just Car Policy Statement? It should be itemised!

A decent solicitor could turn the screws on J/C as a 'sabre-rattling' exercise and charge a minimal fee!

It's been done before!

The Daily Telegraph photographer that took shots of my car last month for Cars Guide was being screwed by NRMA after his VW Transporter caught fire. When he brought a solicitor into the fray, they paid up. That's Nobody Robs More Australians for you.

im with just car

i paid for full comp ($1306) and there saying i have 3rd party

it is a load of shit so im looking at the worst case senario i dont want to sell it off in parts and ill get sweet FA for it and i love her to bits so im loking at repairing it

Dont you have the paperworks stating what policy you puchased with all the details of the policy and your car and so forth or you threw it away?

im with just car

i paid for full comp ($1306) and there saying i have 3rd party

it is a load of shit so im looking at the worst case senario i dont want to sell it off in parts and ill get sweet FA for it and i love her to bits so im loking at repairing it

Go to Abbotsford Collision centre in well, Abbotsford, they can fix anything

Try and turn a negative into a positive.

In other words now you can fit the front Bar you have always wanted, the Bonnet you prefer, Big alloy radiator if you ever plan on track work, better intercooler set up etc

if you can try and sneak in a photo from above looking into engine bay preferably with as much focus on areas like rad support etc....There are probably a few panel guys on here who may offer you some cost estimate etc work involved etc

Edited by GTR-32U
Try and turn a negative into a positive.

In other words now you can fit the front Bar you have always wanted, the Bonnet you prefer, Big alloy radiator if you ever plan on track work, better intercooler set up etc

+1

wen i rebuilt my engine, had a good think and did a lot of things at once

thanks guys

i got all the paperwork so it should be sweet and i get cash back but i want to fix it up as i only had it for 6 months and its a awesome setup

i know abbosford collision and i might give them a bell

or if anyone here can think of the body work to get done cheap but good the mechanical side i can sort out

Yep, modifying a broken part is the way to go. That way you're getting something in return for your money instead of just returning the car to the state it was before. When I smashed up my first car pretty badly (essentially a write off), I resprayed it in Yellow Devil as opposed to the red that the car was previously. That way, in my mind it wasn't a repair...it was a modification :D

Edited by Birds
it is the plan. i want to fix it all up new cooler and front bar and respary it all pearl black and hopefully asap

then ill be back on the roads and happy as ever

Thats it, do t look at it so negatively, its just an opportunity to make your ride better..i had a friend who crashed his car,, insurance said complete write off, much worse than yours, took it to abbotsford and they fixed it up, car goes perfectly.

good luck man

first thing is to strip it. By the looks of it she needs a pull on the skirting, once you have got her squared up with the tremel, unstich your rad support , dummy fit the new one square it up check all gaps fit lights grill bar etc then your away laughing, weld her up with a spot welder if you can get one. Shame your not in bris would have done it for ya

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...