Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

im about to purchase a 100,000k service for my r34 rb25det neo.

now when searching for a full kit for it with bearings and seals and water pump etc...i can find them either for r33 or rb25det.

now will these rb25det or r33 rb25det kits work on my rb25det neo on r34 gtt?

thanks in advance.

Bass.

ok sweet i guess i got my answer.

so the r33 rb25det 100,000k kit and r34 rb25det neo 100,000k service kit are exactly the same and work on both.

so just getting a rb25det kit will work.

only difference i found when doing mine was the water pump, there a few it could be, the first one i got looked ok but it didnt have the enlongated hole at the top where the smallest bolt of the lot go, i cant remember the part number for the one i needed, but all the belt kits are the same i believe, i got my gates kit from CBC bearings through work (mechanics workshop) which came with the blue belt and all the seals and idler and tensioner,

hope i helped lol,

only difference i found when doing mine was the water pump, there a few it could be, the first one i got looked ok but it didnt have the enlongated hole at the top where the smallest bolt of the lot go, i cant remember the part number for the one i needed, but all the belt kits are the same i believe, i got my gates kit from CBC bearings through work (mechanics workshop) which came with the blue belt and all the seals and idler and tensioner,

hope i helped lol,

yeh helped but now im a little confused...is there a variance between r33 rb25det and r34 rb25det neo water pump?

probably. just get the neo kit then it's no dramas?

see, the problem with that is the place im getting it from, eg repco doesnt have anything listen under r34 and only r33 rb25det.

which is why i asked to begin with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
    • hows it fellas, my first post here which seems crazy cos half the forums i read are like the same age as me haha. to make a long story short ive got an r34 sedan (rb25de neo auto) which im swapping to a s0/s1? rb25det, r33 big box and nismo gt pro lsd. i have the motor and gearbox all bolted up outside the car, old motor and trans out. i bought the motor with stock ecu and loom, do i switch over to that? or will it be easier to get a r34 manual ecu and keep the loom if thats even possible.  also engine mounts look different, anything else thats different or incompatible? cheers, hope this all makes sense Paddy
×
×
  • Create New...