Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate relax will ya

not everyone on here has 128 grand to spend on one car

shore it might be rare and all but hey not for 128 grand.

and i look at the auctions everyday andf i have seen autachs cheaper than this ok

no offence

but good luck with the sale it might also be better if you sell it back into japan or even the states if you find the right buyer

Well here we go again, Used Autech RS260 grade 4.5 sell for 3.6-4.5 mill yen. Mine is BRAND NEW, they sell for more dollars than 34GTR,s. or are you talking accident repair cars

A year or so ago everyone was paying $120 grand for a 34GTR until everyone started buying stuffed written off cars and bodging them up and selling them for $85K-$95K. that stuffed the market. Don't try and tell me what you think my car is worth.

What car do you own, it says GTS-R, is it real, I mean a real one,give me your vin no and I'll give you a clue on what it is, It seems your another internet auction tyer kicker, no maybe a internet car expert.

Originally posted by MR-GTR

Basically if you don't want to buy the Autech Stagea, go play on the site elsewhere. don't come stirring crap here, if you want to stir me I'll give you my address.

*stamps feet* "I'm not playing anymore. I'm taking my bat and ball and going home!" :cheers:

You spoke of "the industry". Everything you have described here is what happens when you deal with the general public. If it were easy everyone would be doing it and making bulk $$.

Relax man... :wave:

Basically if you don't want to buy the Autech Stagea, go play on the site elsewhere. don't come stirring crap here, if you want to stir me I'll give you my address.

You probably shouldn't give ur address to ever1 if you have a $120k car in your garage :sly:

free bump

yes it is a real gtsR

already had the number checked through nissan.

and the autechs i am rtalking about some of them have only done like 10,000 k's they are still virgins.

and they are selling for cheaper than yours.

but then again yours is the only one in the country so you can put whatever prcie you want on it

ok

My car cost 6.9mill yen "Brand New" then I spent 1.6 mill yen on upgrades at Nismo omori factory ,your comparing used cars with new cars, of coarse used cars are cheaper than new, I'm not going to waste my time with you, like I said a internet tyer kicker, go away, your a Moron.

Originally posted by MR-GTR

Why are you advertising on my thread,Go start your own thread,Who cares if you can buy a  base model Stagea for $25,000 in perth, Mine is a real, Authentic, genuine , NO IMITATION, Autech RS260, The last one built, The highest optioned  Autech in the World, A one off, I see  you have a RB26DETT in your 240Z, Or so you claim, Save some money and buy the rest of the GTR, You probably shop at Target, You just seem to be thinking of the savings, You would be a person who puts a GTR badge on a GTS, Save some money and buy a real car!!

"MR-GTR" you need to loose your attitude. Before you write crap about people you have to remember that not only you can afford to buy things in this world.

Attached is a picture of the RB26DETT 240Z that I "claim" to have. (not that I need to prove anythign to you...)

If you werent too quick to loose it you would have noticed that I do have a R32 GTR as well, so I have saved my money and bought the "rest"

Nice car, shit attitude.

I will tell you again , stop posting on this site, I don,t give a rats ass about your 1970's pile of puss, or your old 32GTR, I'm well passed those cars, Go play on your own thread, your confirming everything I said, there are a lot of tyer kicking tossers, You must be the president.

Originally posted by MR-GTR

I will tell you again , stop posting on this site

excuse me?

Since when did you get 'site ownership' privaleges? Especially for a non-contributing business owner.

Thread closed.

You wanna take this up with anyone, PM the person.

MRGTR - as people observered, you have a bad attitude. You may wish to consider changing it if you want to keep posting on the forums.

Christian

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...